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Has anyone ever resided their camper? I am thinking the fiberglass rolls like System 3 systems. Something to make the camper look newer and seal it up a bit better.
I just rebuilt the front end or our Keystone Bullet due to rain damage. First thing of course was to stop the leaks. I used Eternabond RV Roof tape and lots of self leveling caulk. Next, stripped everything down to the aluminum frame and removed the wet insulation. Left it open for about a month to ensure it was all dry.
When going back with everything, I used 1/8 bendable plywood (ordered at Home Depot) and a 16ga nailer into the aluminum but be sure to use adhesive as the nails may back out over time. Finished up with trim work using more adhesive and a few paneling nails.
We bought an entry level 31' travel trailer back in 1995. It lasted 20 years until the black streaks on the paint looked so bad.
I had leaks once in a corner and had to completely reconstruct the rear bedroom--down to the floor. Later, I had another leak on the front corner, and reconstruction was not as bad.
Morale of the story: Buy a fiberglass sided camper. Never consider an aluminum sided one.
We now have a 36' fifth wheel trailer with a rear bunkhouse for the grandkids and an outside kitchen. With 4 slides, it's just so roomy.
I just rebuilt the front end or our Keystone Bullet due to rain damage. First thing of course was to stop the leaks. I used Eternabond RV Roof tape and lots of self leveling caulk. Next, stripped everything down to the aluminum frame and removed the wet insulation. Left it open for about a month to ensure it was all dry.
When going back with everything, I used 1/8 bendable plywood (ordered at Home Depot) and a 16ga nailer into the aluminum but be sure to use adhesive as the nails may back out over time. Finished up with trim work using more adhesive and a few paneling nails.
I just rebuilt the front end of my 1977 slide-in Coachman. It also had rain damage. The front window was very loose. I was afraid it would fall out. I replaced the pressed board with 1/4 inche plywood. It stabilized the roof and the window.
The old 70's paneling was water damaged. I couldn't find any similar so I replaced it with breadboard. paneling.
The escape hatch leaks. The window cover is cracked. It's 15" x 22". They don't make 'em anymore. Trying to figureouthowtorebuildthisone.
Note: when spraying roof sealant on a windy day, make sure the windows are covered and the car is parked FAR, FAR away!!!
The shelf under the kitchen had been replaced. I lined it with whiye Glasliner FRP Wall Board smooth side up) that I had left over from another project.
The kitchen cabinets were bulging into the isle. Leveling the counter and reattaching it to the walk straightened them up again - minor details!
I replaced the kitchen paneling with dry-erase board and put a sheet of stainless steel behind the stove.
The wall appears to be sagging from the ceiling. Lots of dry rot along the edge of the roof. There is no give - I can't lift the wall back up into place. It seems to have settled in to that shape. It's pretty solid. This part is going to be a tricky repair!
Has anyone ever resided their camper? I am thinking the fiberglass rolls like System 3 systems. Something to make the camper look newer and seal it up a bit better.
I'll toss this in since I've seen a LOT of this lately with all of the new campers (people, not rvs) out and about at the campgrounds and popping up in the forums.
A lot of leaks stem from a lack of roof maintenance. It's fairly easy to do but it's often easily overlooked. I wash my RV roof once per month (43' so a lot of ground to cover) and inspect all of the dicor sealant around any protrusions through the roof. If it begins to crack, or if there are any signs of lifting, it's best to carefully remove it, clean the area well, and reapply.
Dicor is the best product to use. Do not ever use standard caulking (acrylic or silicone). It will not bond to the rubber roof membrane.
Dicor self leveling lap sealant is used for the roof and non-leveling lap sealant is best for vertical surfaces. Both can be had on Amazon or purchased at any RV dealership in the parts department.
I always suggest that folks keep a roll of Eternabond tape to quickly fix a cut in the membrane and a tube of Dicor on hand. If you clean it properly, condition it, and keep the maintenance up an RV roof will last a long time and you can greatly minimize the risk of roof leaks.
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