Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
I haven't needed to blip the throttle while stationary on any of my bikes to verify that it had throttle response and was ready to go or keep it from dying at idle since the early 1960's ... singles, twins, or multi-cylinder bikes ...
My 1970 Sportster definitely needs some revving right after the kick or it will definitely stall out on me. At least in the cold weather anyway.
My 1970 Sportster definitely needs some revving right after the kick or it will definitely stall out on me. At least in the cold weather anyway.
If it's an XLCH with the magneto ignition, the stock ignition system isn't very good at low RPM ... and thestock induction/carb system isn't too modern, either. But I've ridden a number of 883 XLH's with the battery ignition and an aftermarket carb that didn't need to be "blipped" when started, even in cold weather, by using the choke ... and we're at 5000' or higher elevation, which aggravates the stock induction problems on these bikes.
The CH models were sold as being the "hotter" performer, or more "macho" because they needed a definitely stronger kick to get the magneto to deliver enough spark to start the motor ... but essentially delivered little better performance than a battery & coil model in real world street riding. Which wasn't very far, given the rumble/vibration and small gas tank capacity of these machines with pretty poor fuel economy ....
Anyway, the cold running stall characteristic doesn't require you to "blip" the throttle at the end of a ride, does it, like the OP mentioned with the neighborhood noisemaker?
If it's an XLCH with the magneto ignition, the stock ignition system isn't very good at low RPM ... and thestock induction/carb system isn't too modern, either. But I've ridden a number of 883 XLH's with the battery ignition and an aftermarket carb that didn't need to be "blipped" when started, even in cold weather, by using the choke ... and we're at 5000' or higher elevation, which aggravates the stock induction problems on these bikes.
The CH models were sold as being the "hotter" performer, or more "macho" because they needed a definitely stronger kick to get the magneto to deliver enough spark to start the motor ... but essentially delivered little better performance than a battery & coil model in real world street riding. Which wasn't very far, given the rumble/vibration and small gas tank capacity of these machines with pretty poor fuel economy ....
Anyway, the cold running stall characteristic doesn't require you to "blip" the throttle at the end of a ride, does it, like the OP mentioned with the neighborhood noisemaker?
Thanks for the info. I am trying to learn as much as I can about the bike from people who have actually ridden them. No, I dont blip after it is warmed up. Thats weird. Just at the start, and maybe a couple of red lights. I may even be doing it at more red lights than necessary, but the last thing I want is to stall at a red light with cars behind me and have to get it kick started again. It has a suicide throttle, so I am just getting used to leaving the throttle slightly open so it idles between 2K and 3K RPM. I dont know how good that is for the bike though.
What is a "suicide throttle"? You should be able to set it at the carb so it idles at around 1000 RPM (or even less). 2K-3K is way too high.
I think it's a very cool old bike. I like old bikes!
The throttle stays where ever you leave it so you have to physically close the throttle. Some guy on a sportster forum referred to it as a "suicide throttle" and says that is common in older bikes.
It will idle around 800 RPM when it is warmed up. When it is still cold, it stalls at 1000, or even higher.
The throttle stays where ever you leave it so you have to physically close the throttle. Some guy on a sportster forum referred to it as a "suicide throttle" and says that is common in older bikes.
It will idle around 800 RPM when it is warmed up. When it is still cold, it stalls at 1000, or even higher.
You might want to check out the aftermarket stuff that's around to make this bike more user-friendly. Carbs are a pretty good place to start. Your bike shouldn't need 2K-3K RPM to avoid stalling, even in freezing temps while warming up. There's a lot of flywheel in those sportsters to keep them turning over for the long duration between firing impulses on the v-twin.
OH, and I'd ditch the solid wire throttle cable set up and throttle for one that allows a return to idle. The old set-up didn't get the moniker "suicide throttle" because it was so wonderful to ride ....
You might want to check out the aftermarket stuff that's around to make this bike more user-friendly. Carbs are a pretty good place to start. Your bike shouldn't need 2K-3K RPM to avoid stalling, even in freezing temps while warming up. There's a lot of flywheel in those sportsters to keep them turning over for the long duration between firing impulses on the v-twin.
OH, and I'd ditch the solid wire throttle cable set up and throttle for one that allows a return to idle. The old set-up didn't get the moniker "suicide throttle" because it was so wonderful to ride ....
It probably doesn't need 2k-3K. As I said, I am overcompensating because I dont want to hold up traffic at a light while I try getting the bike kick started again. 1500 RPM is probably closer to where it stalls when it is cold.
It is an original bike, and it is basically new, with only 3900 miles on it. So you can understand why I dont want to "modernize" it by changing the throttle. I would like to change the carb, but I need to find out from the AMCA which carbs are acceptable for judging purposes.
I wasn't aware that 1970s Sportsters came stock without throttle return springs. That seems quite unsafe to me. It would save your wrist on a long ride, but the tradeoff is unacceptable IMO.
I wasn't aware that 1970s Sportsters came stock without throttle return springs. That seems quite unsafe to me. It would save your wrist on a long ride, but the tradeoff is unacceptable IMO.
Yeah, but if you buy an old knucklehead, do you take off the tank shifter? Or do you put an airbag in a Model T? Do you see my point?
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
