Relocating from DFW to Milwaukee (Waukesha, Brookfield: real estate, loft, condos)

[SickOfTheSunbelt]

Looking forward to moving back to the upper midwest next spring. Never been to Milwaukee, but from what I hear it's very underrated and the locals make the supposed crime problem out to be a much bigger deal than it really is. And housing seems very reasonable along the lake in the near south suburbs of Cudahy and South Milwaukee.

What kind of towns are these? They are close to the city center and the lake, so I am very interested to learn more about these areas. How does the south shore compare to the north shore with respect to proximity to the lake and traffic getting to/from downtown?


Anyway, can't wait to actually live in a city that has natural beauty and character! 2 things you surely won't find anywhere around here...

[adam76]

I personally think Cudahy and South Milwaukee are decent, but you'll hear from those who probably dislike it. They are by no means glamorous suburbs -- definately blue collar all the way -- but I think you'd find them a nice place to live. The lakefront is awesome; Grant Park is really nice as well as South Shore park a little farther north. Commutes to downtown are better from the south side than the north side with the Lake Parkway. Housing prices are cheaper in the south shore compared to the north shore for similiar houses.

Down sides I can think of living in the south shore area would be if you worked in the western or northwestern suburbs. The commute would be long. Also shopping choices aren't the greatest in this area, although it is improving. I live a little farther south in Oak Creek and while much of what we need is either on Howell, 27th St, or Southridge Mall we do find ourselves driving out to Brookfield or up to Bayshore often enough. Admittedly this is nitpicking. To me the worst part about living east of I-43 is the weather! By April we are pretty tired of winter and there can be a significant temperature difference between near the lake and away from the like. There are days where you can have 55-60 at the lake, and low 70s in Waukesha. The difference lessens as the lake warms up over summer but it can make the long winter a few weeks longer for us east siders. Because of geography this affects the north shore a little more than the south shore. The opposite is true in winter but if you ask me there's not much difference between 10 and 20 .

Crime in Milwaukee is a problem but I think what is missing from some of the discussion here is that a high percentage of the crime is in a very concentrated area.

I would highly suggest visiting the area. Cudahy / South Milwaukee / St Francis are older cities. They have a different "feel" than Brookfield / Waukesha which are more like your typical suburb.

[43north87west]

The south shore is very commute-able. However, IMO those two communities may not appeal to you once you check them out. I don't mean to offend anyone, but those areas kind of give me the impression of old factory towns with no factories or identity left. Lots of empty storefronts and shopping areas. Just not particularly attractive and perhaps closed-minded and run down.

Again... ONLY my opinion.

Don't underestimate some areas of the city itself. There are several areas of the city that are very liveable, save, and sought after. Also they are nice family areas too.

The problem is the taxes and schools, although there are school choice programs from what I understand. Or you can go with private school, but the taxes are expensive, so you may as well get what you can.

The north shore is very nice with great schools, but the friendliness factor dies down the farther north you go. Also the character of construction subsides somewhat after you get into Fox Point and points north. But the property is more ample. Anything near Lake Michigan is fairly well established, lots of trees, and an OK commute.

Please note, Milwaukee has very minimal traffic problems. When people fume over a fifteen minute delay getting somewhere, you know it must not be too bad. However, Milwaukee's roads are far undersized for the traffic they carry and include a lot of stupidly designed left exits and double merge lanes (on and off). They are being removed though, which is good. I can just see some engineer of yesteryear designing the "expressway of tomorrow" where cars would merge happily on and off the highway with a cheery wave and a smile. Instead, these points are a disaster area. And as a result of that, you get a lot of stop and go action, whereas in the sunbelt states, due to newer construction and available space, traffic creeps along more steadily.

Overall, commuting is not too bad. You can find slowdowns as far north as County Line Rd. and as far west as Brookfield. They are bad when there are crashes. But not awful, and certainly don't ruin the quality of living or working in the city, or of commuting.

[SickOfTheSunbelt]

Thanks a lot for the feedback.

The company I'll be transferring with is located downtown so I definitely plan to live close to the city center. I'm looking for a nice area, close to the lake with big old houses and character.

How is Shorewood? It appears to be in a prime location. I also received a tip from somebody about the Brewers Hill neighborhood. Any additional feedback would be much appreciated!

Thanks.

[Badger At Heart]

Hey Sick!

Same here. My husband and I are in Rowlett, and I'm so sick of it here I could puke. I'm in talks with a company in Milwaukee right now, and am looking to start in early September.

So many of the buildings I see there are historical and beautiful. And they've not only kept them, they've improved them. You know in Dallas, God forbid they keep anything old with character when they could put up a mall or a parking lot instead.

Take care, and stay in touch if you need to hear a "ya'll" or something. I know I'll get homesick for Central Market or the need to hear some Joe Ely from time to time, but after 36 years here, I cannot handle the heat anymore.

[adam76]

Shorewood is an upscale suburb... I think "old money" would be a good way to describe it. Having the newly reconstructed Bayshore Mall and town square nearby is nice. If you like old neighborhood feel you would like Shorewood, definately not the cookie cutter look of most newer suburbs.

Brewers Hill is on the northern edge of downtown. Many new condos have been built in this recently revitalized area. The condos at the top of the hill have pretty nice views of downtown. It's your typical urban loft condo type living which may or may not be for you. The downside to Brewers Hill is that it is closer to the rough areas of town so in my very un-expert opinion investing in real estate here might be a bit more of a gamble than it would be in the 3rd ward. If you visit and like Brewers Hill I would also recommend checking out the 3rd Ward which is just to the south of downtown. There are many more shops and restaurants within walking distance than Brewers Hill.

[lw6]

knowing about the midwest; i say get more info. the midwest used to be slow, but a lot has changed. it isn't like dallas, but u knew that already! the interesting thing to many is that the midwest was politiclly liberal for many yrs.

[Fishtacos]

Originally Posted by SickOfTheSunbelt

Looking forward to moving back to the upper midwest next spring. Never been to Milwaukee, but from what I hear it's very underrated and the locals make the supposed crime problem out to be a much bigger deal than it really is. And housing seems very reasonable along the lake in the near south suburbs of Cudahy and South Milwaukee.

What kind of towns are these? They are close to the city center and the lake, so I am very interested to learn more about these areas. How does the south shore compare to the north shore with respect to proximity to the lake and traffic getting to/from downtown?


Anyway, can't wait to actually live in a city that has natural beauty and character! 2 things you surely won't find anywhere around here...

First let me say Brewer's Hill has plenty of single family homes. It has old restored historic homes, tear downs with new homes, and some home sthat frankly need to be torn down. A mix of 3...and at very very South end are a lot of condos. Stick from middle to South end....area borders rough North and Northwest areas on its North end....Brewer's Hill itself is fine, and one of my favorites. It is extremely close to downtown....blocks.

With that said...

Where else did you live in Upper Midwest?

What is your lifestyle?.....urban/suburban...family etc....what things r u looking for?

North Shore is Upper Crust. Deals can be had, but searching hard you will need to do. South Shore MUCH cheaper, not close. North Shore has a lot of character older homes and neighborhoods etc....with close lake proximity....Shorewood included.

Whitefish Bay is about 3-5 miles from downtown, depending on where in it you live. Mequon(just to give you distances on a map is 15 miles or more if at very far North end).....Lower East Side and Shorewood...2 miles, or less. Very close to the action of downtown, lower east side, and lake. Temps will be cooler by the lake....good for summer, not so much for winter....summer temps are 70's and often sunny...up to 80....people often complain when it clines the 80's....lol as too hot. People in Milwaukee do not know what hot is....but they do know cold. Summer is great from June-Sept...May is up and down at best imo....falls are short but fine. Jan-April are rough. Cloudy, cold, dreary much of time.

Crime is Northwest and West of downtown. Generally speaking.

City is safe to live in....if you did....I recommend:

Brewer's Hill
Third Ward(primarily brick loft condos area of old warehouses etc...now an upscale urban professional environment)
Lower East Side
Downtown

IMO, the Lakefront, River, and 4 areas above are best things about Milwaukee right now.

Shorewood starts suburbia North...and Whitefish Bay is pretty similar....and a bit more pricey

Bayview is fine, on South Side if you didn't want to go as far as Cudahy South...or St. Francis.....MUCH more affordable...but also a lot less character and some more run down areas mixed in....but safe.

There are other areas Southwest, South and West and North that I haven't yet mentioned....if you wanted more.

[mke_jim]

Proximity to the lake is a huge factor. On the "fashionable east-side" - Milwaukee near UW-M, Shorewood and Whitefish Bay - once you get a block or two off the lake the homes are fairly modest. I wouldn't call all of Shorewood (or Whitefish Bay) "old money." A few of my friends, professors and engineers with stay-at-home wives and young children, live in Whitefish Bay.

South of downtown, while the Bayview neighborhood of Milwaukee, South Milwaukee, St. Francis, and Cudahy are "blue collar" in general, there is nothing blue collar about the parts a block or two from the lake.

So middle class professionals can find a home they can be happy with in either neighborhood but shopping might be an issue... Stores aim at the middle demographic so for example a pricey chain like Cheesecake Factory is within quick driving distance to WFB but not So. Mil. There is good dining in both neighborhoods however.

For what it is worth, I live on the west side of Milwaukee (Washington Heights) a 15 minute commute to downtown on city streets and spent a year at the U. of Dallas. I had relatives in North Dallas and Plano back in the 80s.

[SickOfTheSunbelt]

I appreciate the responses and I've been doing some research. How is the Humboldt Park area? Is this considered Bay View? Seems like you can get a nice big house for a reasonable price and according to the Milwaukee Police website, crime in that vicinity ( roughly east of the freeway/north of the airport) is nonexistent.