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Hi all - I am on this journey to try to build a second home/later retirement home in Maine. From the threads I see here, I don't think I am the only one, so I thought I'd share a few resources I found useful.
Simple Cost Estimating - I have run this and compared the results for some builders' estimates I got, and it's surprisingly good (within 10%), considering how simple and easy it is to use, probably about as accurate as the builders' estimates themselves were! You still need to have a pretty specific idea of what you are trying to build and how you want it built - maybe from an online home plan and some thinking about finishes and features, but that's kind of a given if you want a meaningful estimate from any resource. If you want the estimate to be accurate, then don't "lowball" it with your input parameters. Building-Cost.net - Start Your Valuation
Home Design Tools - if you've thought about what you really want/need/can afford, and you have looked at a bazillion online plans and can't find something close, it's time to think about a custom design. You can of course use a grid-ruled sketchpad, pencil and eraser to work on ideas, but I think electronic tools work better. Electronic tools do have a bigger learning curve than a pencil though, but once you get the hang of them, are easier to work with.
Free online tool - HomeStyler - for a cost of zero, this is actually very nice. Supports dimensions, 2D and 3D views, placing furniture, fixtures and cabinets. The aesthetics are more European for interior items, but if you're focusing mainly on size and layout, this isn't a significant limitation. You'll need to set up a free account to save your work and return to it in another session: https://www.homestyler.com/
Purchased, Installed Program - Home Designer Architectural ($200) or Pro ($500) - for the price, this is an astoundingly sophisticated program. Some professionals do use the Pro version. The same company makes a true pro architect's program (Chief Architect) for something like $2,900 that seems to be the leading residential architect's choice. If you use an architect there is a good chance they use Chief Architect, and it can actually exchange files with the Home Designer program, allowing you two to collaborate on the design. They have just come out with the 2019 versions of the Home Designer software. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/
Last edited by OutdoorLover; 03-03-2018 at 05:32 AM..
To give you an idea of what you can do with Home Designer Architectural ($200) - what even I can do with it ;-)... here are some sample images of my dream home as I think of it now, for the lot I bought. It's a modest 2-bedroom (1152 sq ft) place with a basement, with the living space on the south side to catch the sun, and an oversized attached garage in the back to make dealing with the snow easier.
Fair warning - the software is pretty complex so it takes awhile to get the hang of, at this point I'd say I am pretty good with it, but certainly not expert. I plan to get the Pro version ($500) soon. $500 is still short money compared to buying home plans and then figuring out too late that the plan isn't the right one for you, or sitting in the architect's office with the meter running and with no good starting point. I still plan to hire an architect in the end to make the actual blueprints to be submitted for town approval and to the builder. But in the meantime I can work on alternative designs that will fit on the lot, for just the cost of my own time, as much as I please, and I think this is worth a lot in terms of figuring out what will fit the lot, look decent, and fit my needs and budget.
Last edited by OutdoorLover; 03-03-2018 at 08:56 AM..
That porch design will lift with the frost in Maine. There are ways to prevent this:
1. Base your supports at least a foot below the frost line.
2. Use adjustable supports.
You can also compensate for our frost problems by placing your porch in contact with your building, but not attached to it. That way the porch can move without causing any damage.
That porch design will lift with the frost in Maine. There are ways to prevent this:
1. Base your supports at least a foot below the frost line.
2. Use adjustable supports.
You can also compensate for our frost problems by placing your porch in contact with your building, but not attached to it. That way the porch can move without causing any damage.
Thanks NMLM - I take your point. The design is not finished yet, and I will be drafting alternatives. The way the software works, you are not drawing everything that is there (at least not when you begin). You basically signal what you want, and the software fills in a lot of the details. For the porch, I drew the outline of the deck, and it added the framing and piers automatically. Then I placed different roof columns and played with their proportions before picking something, outlined the railings, and it filled those in (the railing is not quite right either at this point, will worry about that later tho), then said, okay now add the roof, and it just filled that in too. So you're kind of sketching the ideas, and it's automatically filling in a lot of details for you.
It's a quick way to work out concepts, but you do need to go in and clean stuff up later, once you decide you're not going to make significant changes. I think of it as iterative design - first rough design while you figure our broadly what ideas you like, and then cycles of refinement once you select one or two best prospects - I don't want to spend two hours on a room and then decide the layout doesn't work. I haven't gotten to the refinement yet, and in fact at this point, although I am trying to work on useful designs, I am also still learning the software while I go! On the porch, I need to fix the railings, and the piers, besides being deeper, might wind up being square concrete piers with brick facing instead of those concrete sonotube things there by default, I'll also need to look at the roof structure, which needs work.
In the end, the architect will just take my work as their starting point - I know some basics, but I am not qualified to do things like figure snow load for my structure, etc. I will have some things I want to specify in terms of framing and insulation techniques that I have picked up from the DOE website and that I know aren't standard, but it will still be the architect's job to do the detailed structural design - I want *their* work to be spec'd out to the nines because they will have a stronger technical background in this work and more practical experience as well. I will be giving them just a "first draft" if you will.
I found some cool software when I was preparing to build. It can be a lot of fun.
Our design looks nice so far
There is a lot being done with 'net-zero' [self-heating / self-powering] homes, something to consider.
It can be tricky and time-consuming, but yes I also find it absorbing and fun. You're basically white-boarding design ideas and with the computer model instead of just a vague idea in your head, you can get a lot better idea of how things will look, how "stuff" and people will fit, and how it all will live.
I have read some on net-zero design. I think it is really interesting and environmentally conscious, but I don't think it is for me, as I think there are also some downsides when you go to make a house *reeeeally* energy efficient. I do plan to have more insulation than code requires in the ceiling, walls and foundation (for example roxul in 2x6 walls plus 3-inches of continuous roxul board outside the sheathing, and raised heel roof trusses to allow generous attic insulation to extend to the top plate of the walls), plus triple pane windows and insulated fiberglass doors, so not standard. But I don't at this point plan to go to walls 15-20 inches thick with unconventional construction, european windows and minimal air exchange. Not saying that is bad, but it doesn't align with my own biases.
Last edited by OutdoorLover; 03-04-2018 at 06:40 PM..
So what is the cost estimate give to build or take of your dream home as designed above?
This place figures to be roughly $275K, including the building and site development, say give or take $20K (not including the lot, of course). That's with what the costing site labels as "Best Standard" I think they call it - I am not seeking luxury level components, but I am seeking low-maintenance, long-lasting, reasonably attractive ones. For specific examples of my thoughts on specs at this point, there is a direct-vent gas fireplace with a wood surround and mantle and a flush tile hearth, hardwood or ceramic tile floors, Marvin Integrity windows with triple panes and SDL, better grade Thermatru doors, mid-grade Kraftmaid cabinets in stock sizes wherever possible, best grade synthetic siding and asphalt shingles, synthetic porch decking and columns, old school clay brick, etc... Site development costs are fairly low in my case, because there is no land clearing needed, and electricity, city water and sewer are at the street out front (of course I paid up front for the village lot though). Fair warning that the actual price can vary a good deal depending on construction details, similar to how vehicle price can swing based on options and equipment.
P.S. You'll notice I use a very simple foundation and roof plan, this helps in construction costs, versus a plan with lots of zigs and zags and stuff sticking out all over. I've got just a rectangle with a gable roof, which is about as simple as it gets. At this point I am also looking to hold it to one over-sized bathroom with an included laundry and closets. I know most houses nowadays have 50 bathrooms, but for a modest sized 2-bedroom single level house, I think one good-sized bathroom can be enough. And eliminating a second bathroom and folding the laundry in saves space, money and cleaning work. I then have more space for closets, which are also useful, and they are inexpensive. The main building envelope (not including porch or garage) is just 32 feet wide and 36 feet deep.
Last edited by OutdoorLover; 03-05-2018 at 11:01 AM..
I have read some on net-zero design. I think it is really interesting and environmentally conscious, but I don't think it is for me, as I think there are also some downsides when you go to make a house *reeeeally* energy efficient. I do plan to have more insulation than code requires in the ceiling, walls and foundation (for example roxul in 2x6 walls plus 3-inches of continuous roxul board outside the sheathing, and raised heel roof trusses to allow generous attic insulation to extend to the top plate of the walls), plus triple pane windows and insulated fiberglass doors, so not standard. But I don't at this point plan to go to walls 15-20 inches thick with unconventional construction, european windows and minimal air exchange. Not saying that is bad, but it doesn't align with my own biases.
You should look into what's called a "Mooney Wall" construction. It cuts down tremendously on thermal bridging of the wood framing. I built a place a few years back. Walls are framed with 2x6 plus the additional 1 1/2 inch horizontals. Used the web mesh and blown in cellulose in the walls. About 3 feet of cellulose in the attic. Can heat it with a candle and have never even had an icicle on the roof.
You should look into what's called a "Mooney Wall" construction. It cuts down tremendously on thermal bridging of the wood framing. I built a place a few years back. Walls are framed with 2x6 plus the additional 1 1/2 inch horizontals. Used the web mesh and blown in cellulose in the walls. About 3 feet of cellulose in the attic. Can heat it with a candle and have never even had an icicle on the roof.
Okay thanks, Kelly - I will certainly look into that. I am planning now on 3-inches of Roxul "ComfortBoard" semi-rigid rock wool outside the sheathing to reduce thermal bridging (and add insulation inches overall) and hanging the siding on 1x4 furring strips that have been fixed through the ComfortBoard to the structural wall.
I am hesitant to use any framing/flashing methods that contractors and builders aren't well-versed in. People make mistakes even with time tested methods, so I don't want to invite mistakes by asking someone to implement techniques they aren't real familiar with. Also I think about modifications later, and I want Joe Carpenter who might come along 10, 20 or more years later to understand exactly how a wall structure is built and how it all works (even if I am not there), and of course that can be hard to figure out from looking at the siding and wallboard, especially if you aren't familiar with the type of assembly that's hidden. I worry again about people facing uncommon wall assemblies and not knowing what they are doing. Not saying my choices are the right ones, but each person needs to assess, prioritize opportunities and risks, budget, etc. according to their own needs and thinking.
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Sample Design Images
