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Oberon476 read you post several times. Thanks good info. None of those problems exist.
New home. Talked with several other homeowners, all have the same problem.
Located in San Antonio. Humid climate, cold and humid out, warm in, hence problem. In my OPINION the builder Pulte took the cheap way out without consideration for quality or the homeowners by installing steel framed windows.
The Texas window market is dominated by two common elements - fast and cheap. Now I wouldn't begin to suggest that all Texas builders use bottom quality windows in their homes, but I might suggest that enough do that the state does have that reputation.
Do you know if your windows have a LowE coating? The coating will make a difference on interior glass temperature and will have an effect on interior condensation.
Aluminum frames will also affect interior condensation, more so than other available window frame materials simply because aluminum windows (even those with thermal breaks) will conduct more heat than will the other available window materials. Again, I am not suggesting that aluminum windows are bad, there are some very good aluminum windows on the market, but that they do have a different level of energy performance versus vinyl, wood, or fiberglass, for example.
As you found, opening a window slightly does affect formation of condensation on your window surfaces. What happened is despite the obvious amount of moisture outside (per your first post), your indoor moisture level was even higher than the outdoor moisture level. Opening the window resulted in some of the excess indoor moisture migrating outside your home; so you ended up with a dryer indoor environment, a higher dew point temperature in your home, and no condensation on your windows. Lower moisture level = higher dew point.
As you head into winter, your windows are going to get colder and glass, sash, frame surface temperatures may once again dip below the dew point, which if it happens will once again result in condensation on your windows. It is entirely possible that opening the window slightly will no longer work alone when temperatures drop.
A dehumidifier may become a necessity, especially as it sounds like your home is pretty tight, if you start to see moisture again. Also, and as mentioned previously by a couple folks, make sure that you run your exhaust fans everytime someone takes a shower or when cooking. You need to get the excess moisture outside of your home.
If your home is really tight, then you might also consider leaving a window or two cracked so that when running the exhaust fan you are replacing the air in your home with fresh air from outside. In winter, the outside air is very likely to be dryer than indoor air so that should also help.
The Texas window market is dominated by two common elements - fast and cheap. Now I wouldn't begin to suggest that all Texas builders use bottom quality windows in their homes, but I might suggest that enough do that the state does have that reputation.
Do you know if your windows have a LowE coating? The coating will make a difference on interior glass temperature and will have an effect on interior condensation.
Aluminum frames will also affect interior condensation, more so than other available window frame materials simply because aluminum windows (even those with thermal breaks) will conduct more heat than will the other available window materials. Again, I am not suggesting that aluminum windows are bad, there are some very good aluminum windows on the market, but that they do have a different level of energy performance versus vinyl, wood, or fiberglass, for example.
As you found, opening a window slightly does affect formation of condensation on your window surfaces. What happened is despite the obvious amount of moisture outside (per your first post), your indoor moisture level was even higher than the outdoor moisture level. Opening the window resulted in some of the excess indoor moisture migrating outside your home; so you ended up with a dryer indoor environment, a higher dew point temperature in your home, and no condensation on your windows. Lower moisture level = higher dew point.
As you head into winter, your windows are going to get colder and glass, sash, frame surface temperatures may once again dip below the dew point, which if it happens will once again result in condensation on your windows. It is entirely possible that opening the window slightly will no longer work alone when temperatures drop.
A dehumidifier may become a necessity, especially as it sounds like your home is pretty tight, if you start to see moisture again. Also, and as mentioned previously by a couple folks, make sure that you run your exhaust fans everytime someone takes a shower or when cooking. You need to get the excess moisture outside of your home.
If your home is really tight, then you might also consider leaving a window or two cracked so that when running the exhaust fan you are replacing the air in your home with fresh air from outside. In winter, the outside air is very likely to be dryer than indoor air so that should also help.
I have been researching dehumidifiers. Any recommendations on a good, efficient and quiet one?
Sorry, I don't really know anything about specific brands of dehumidifiers. Possibly you know someone who works with HVAC? They should be able to help.
Also, on rereading in my last post I had a typo/brain cramp when I said Lower moisture level = higher dew point, that should be lower moisture level = lower dew point - sorry for any confusion on that one.
Now you just have to watch out for over dry air. If you over do it, you will get skin problems, sinus problems bloody noses etc.
IN the winter we have the opposite problem that you have, the air in our house is too dry. We have to run humidifiers on every floor. We do get moisture on some windows, but that is prefereable to skin and sinus problems.
I'm struggling with this problem as well. This summer we installed new vinyl windows into our older 1972 home. We live in a relatively dry climate, so we have a humidifier that sits on our woodburner to add moisture to air. The problem is, we have condensation build up on the inside of the windows and mold is growing. These are brand new windows and I don't know what to do about it! Any suggestions? We really don't want to remove the humidifier due to sinus and skin dryness.
Do you have curtains? If you do are they the insulated type? Most likely you are overdoing the humidifying which is where whole house humidifiers come into play so you can have a more accurate adjustments in the level of humidity in the air. If you can get a Hygrometer and regular thermometer and check your indoor temps you can figure out the dew point here: http://www.decatur.de/javascript/dew/index.html
I'm struggling with this problem as well. This summer we installed new vinyl windows into our older 1972 home. We live in a relatively dry climate, so we have a humidifier that sits on our woodburner to add moisture to air. The problem is, we have condensation build up on the inside of the windows and mold is growing. These are brand new windows and I don't know what to do about it! Any suggestions? We really don't want to remove the humidifier due to sinus and skin dryness.
With the new windows your home is now TO tight!! Stop using the humidifier!!!!
Since your home now to tight you might want to consider your inside air quality which I'll bet isn't that good now. A house NEEDS to leak some air to vent carbon monoxide and other gases. I'd suggest two things that you do ASAP! 1.) stop using the humidifier and 2.) crack a window to allow some air exchange to avoid some really serious health problems a to tight house can cause. In fact you might have to install an in wall heat exchanger to get the necessary ventilation.
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