Looking at buying house. 2x4 walls? (foundation, windows, tank, insulated)

[Dewm]

Hey,

So I live up in Alaska, and yes it does get fairly cold up here. at least for 1 week in the winter we are looking at around -40.

So here's my question, my wife and I have been looking for a house for quite some time (7-9 months) and where we are there just isn't a whole lot. We recently found a house that we really really like. 3 bedroom 2 bath just remodeled 1400sqf.

But here is the delema, it only has 2x4 walls. And up here it is standard to build 2x6 because of the R value. They are asking 135,000 for the house. So if it where only 2x6 it would be a awsome deal.

My question is, what could/can I do to improve the R value of the walls? (here is one idea I had, I could put 1x1 on the outside of the wall and put blue board insulation around it and then put a layer of house wrap on and then T1-11 siding.)

Now its probably not that great of an idea. But since it was remodeled I don't wan to do any work from the inside (and tear out all of that new sheet rock) So whatever it is has to be done from the outside.

Any ideas?

thanks

[Mercury Cougar]

I'd ask to see copies of their utility bills during the winter.

[Dewm]

Allready did that.

He fills up his oil tank 2 times a year at $500 each time. And his electric is on average $130 a month.

Which honestly is to expensive for me, (I could afford it, but I dont' want to) Thats why I want to know if there is anything I could do. Or should I just forget the house :S

[Uconn97]

Then you must not really love the house then??

Those bills do not seem that high to me. I think you lose more heat through attics and windows and doors so I would be more concerned about those spaces.

[Dewm]

Ok, well the attic has standard bats in there, and I had planned (if we buy it) to put a good layer of the loose fill insulation on top of it (I think they call it loose fill)


And all of the windows/doors got replaced when the house was remodeled. They are brand new double pain.

And I know that putting the extra insulation in the attic would be a snap, i've done it before.

[jcarlilesiu]

Insulation is a tricky situation. First, about putting loose (spray in) batt in the attic. Be sure not to cover up your soffit vents (assuming you have them). Attics are not insulated spaces, and thus air needs to be able to move through the soffit vent to a ridge vent or vents through the roof. Attempting to "seal" an attic often times leads to mold issues as not enough circulation is provided. If you have 2X8 ceiling joists, and the Batt material already installed fills the entire area, you already have about an R24 value assuming its in good shape with no leaks.

That being said, if you want to button up the house tighter in other locations, there are definately ways to do so. I understand that many houses in Alaska are built with 2X6 as it allows more space in the walls for insulation. Keep in mind however that many houses in the coldest regions of the lower 50 only have 2X4 walls.

Your cavity walls should definatley be of concern in regard to increasing the efficiency of the house, but also pay very close attention to the windows. Are they sealed up tight? Do they have insulated glazing? Are they argon or filled with other types of non-thermal conductive gases? Doors are just as important. Are they insulated doors? Glass doors (see above for thermal concerns regarding glazing). Do the doors seal up tight and do they have proper door sweeps and thermal breaks?

If you have done all of that and still want to concentrate on the walls themselves, I think your idea of installing a polystyrene insulation board on the exterior, followed by house wrap, followed by new siding is the wrong way to go. A single layer of rigid insulation board (which will increase your R-value by 5) is going to cause a problem at all your punched openings for windows and doors. It is about 1 1/2" thick, so how will you return the wall at the window that is already set at the existing wall plane? Additionally, how is it going to look with the wall sticking out from the foundation another few inches due to the increased thickness of the wall?

I think your better bet is to install additional insulation at the interior. The problem here is cost and what it would take to rip the exterior walls finish off. By doing those though, you have the oppurtunity to investigate current insulation condition and replace if required, and then install 1 1/2" furing strips for attachment of new drywall. Install the strips at 24" O.C. vertically with the new rigid insulation between furing strips. This will allow for a clean finish with a small reduction in room size.

The rigid insulation will increase your R-value by about 5... where 2 more inches of insulation accomodated by a 2X6 wall would get you an increase of about 6.

Hope this helps.

[Dewm]

Thanks for the info, and yes your post was very helpful. And yes the windows are argon filled.

would you mind expanding on this statment a little bit. I'm not new to construction. But I really havn't done anything like this. And quite honestly i'm having trouble visulizing what your talking about.

{I think your better bet is to install additional insulation at the interior. The problem here is cost and what it would take to rip the exterior walls finish off. By doing those though, you have the oppurtunity to investigate current insulation condition and replace if required, and then install 1 1/2" furing strips for attachment of new drywall. Install the strips at 24" O.C. vertically with the new rigid insulation between furing strips. This will allow for a clean finish with a small reduction in room size.}

[marmac]

Originally Posted by Dewm

Allready did that.

He fills up his oil tank 2 times a year at $500 each time. And his electric is on average $130 a month.

Which honestly is to expensive for me, (I could afford it, but I dont' want to) Thats why I want to know if there is anything I could do. Or should I just forget the house :S

I find that hard to believe for Alaska----" He fiils up his oil tank 2 times a year at $500 each time"

To do that,( fill twice a year ) he would need a huge tank and even a smaller,standard, tank (265 gallons) would cost much more than $500.

I doubt you saw all the heating slips ! ( or did he tell you that was the amount $$$$$ and gallons it took ?)

[golfgal]

Originally Posted by marmac

I find that hard to believe for Alaska----" He fiils up his oil tank 2 times a year at $500 each time"

To do that,( fill twice a year ) he would need a huge tank and even a smaller,standard, tank (265 gallons) would cost much more than $500.

I doubt you saw all the heating slips ! ( or did he tell you that was the amount $$$$$ and gallons it took ?)

What is the cost per gallon of oil in Alaska? I don't think that those bills seem all that high. The electric bill on AVERAGE is probably ok if you use central air or if electrical costs are high in your area.

[jcarlilesiu]

Originally Posted by Dewm

Thanks for the info, and yes your post was very helpful. And yes the windows are argon filled.

would you mind expanding on this statment a little bit. I'm not new to construction. But I really havn't done anything like this. And quite honestly i'm having trouble visulizing what your talking about.

{I think your better bet is to install additional insulation at the interior. The problem here is cost and what it would take to rip the exterior walls finish off. By doing those though, you have the oppurtunity to investigate current insulation condition and replace if required, and then install 1 1/2" furing strips for attachment of new drywall. Install the strips at 24" O.C. vertically with the new rigid insulation between furing strips. This will allow for a clean finish with a small reduction in room size.}

Basically, just adding the rigid insulation like you described to the inside of the exterior wall. By using a hat channel or furring strip on the face of the existing 2X4 framing, you can push the drywall out 1-1/2" to accomodate the new insulation board. There will be no evidence of the new rigid insulation board hidden behind the new drywall.

Your wall thickness will increase and anybody looking at the home after you completed this energy upgrade would most likely assume that the house was built with 2X6 instead of the true 2X4.

The rigid insulation board on the interior of the exterior walls will provide slightly less R-rating than if it was a true 2X6 wall filled completely with fiberglass batt insulation.