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Location: Pittsburgh--Home of the 6 time Super Bowl Champions!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uconn97
Thank again everyone. Maybe I will have the applicator and a big brush on hand and see which works best. Looks like there is no concensus on a brand of poly so I guess I will have to see what brands are available in the local stores. I am hoping I can get away with one coat since I am not taking it down to the wood, but I guess I won't know until I get started. I'll be glad when its done and I can cross another room off my list! Thanks
I'm telling you--use Fabulon--you won't be sorry!!
Location: Pittsburgh--Home of the 6 time Super Bowl Champions!
11,310 posts, read 12,379,589 times
Reputation: 4938
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLK55
Sanding helps additional coats adhere by "roughing up" the surface as well as removing any minor imperfections in the first coat. On high traffic areas multiple coats are desirable because finishes will wear over time.
If you could see a cross section of an applied finish at a microscopic level, it would have tiny pits and ridges in it. While they're not visible to the naked eye, they do affect the appearance of the finish overall. Sanding removes these to a degree and the next coat helps fill it in to make these even smaller. The more coats, the more uniform and smooth a finish you will have in the end. It's also generally recommended to go to a higher grit sandpaper after each coat.
For anyone wanting to try this, also wipe down the sanded areas with a damp cloth to remove any dust, otherwise it will become embedded in the finish.
That's a great explanation--couldn't have said it better myself!!
Thanks again - i haven't seen any brands mentioned here at my local stores. I have seen minwax, cabot, varathane, something called Pro something or other and thats about it. I still have to go to ace, but thats the last stop. thanks
Have you used the Fabulon yet? I am in the process of applying it to our floors now (1st coat is down). The label recommends that the 3rd coat be 'cut' with a Fabulon brand product. It is too late for us to order it online, and there is no one local that sells it. Does anyone know what solvent works with Fabulon original formula (acetone, or xylene ???) Can either of these be used to cut it for the final coat? Thanks for help in advance! -sg
Glitsa (Glista?) Very difficult to apply. Nothing beats it for durability. You have to leave the house when it is applied We used a water based version in most rooms, but it is the two part oil based stuff that cannot be beat. You have to mix it just before you use it. It smells terrible, but seems to be bacisally indestructible.
My father used fabulon in the 60s. Amazing stuff and it is still around and you can recoat in a few hours. But if the floor is stained I think you are SOL; it has to be the natural wood. Fabulon is the stuff they use on bowling alley lanes so you know it is super tough.
Oh, when they sold their house, it sold the first day it was listed. The floors sold the house.
I would LOVE to know if you *can* use it on stained floors?
I think you can use some of the Fabulon finishes over stained floors, not the original bowling ally finish formulation though. Here is a link to their how-to section for finishing floors and choosing finishes. What I like is that they don't shove the Fabulon name down your throat the whole way through the article. How to Refinish Hardwood Floors
Down the page a ways it tells about finishing the floor with stains and covering with a Fabulon finish. I am going to use their "Crystal" finish on my floors in a couple of weeks when I re-do them.
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