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Old 03-05-2014, 06:31 AM
 
1 posts, read 4,424 times
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I drive Honda Accord 2009. Since last month, my brake pedal is getting stuck in up position, whenever I back out to get out of driveway or parking lot. It usually happens every now and then. It is completely stuck in UP position that I can't stop the car no matter how hard I pressure the pedal. It won't move down. The only way to stop is either putting it in park while the car is moving or use the hand brake. In last 2 weeks it happens 4 times, and I almost involved in 3 major accidents. No matter what I did I couldn't push down on the brake pedal either going forward or backward. My hand brake or emergency brake helped. All this after my car passed the inspection for this year. I replaced my rotor, brake pads, did alignment, tire replacement all for passing the inspection and it did. I did tell the mechanics of my brake pedal problems, but they didn't find anything wrong with it.

Please help. What do you think is wrong with my car?
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Old 03-05-2014, 06:58 AM
 
2,600 posts, read 8,846,834 times
Reputation: 2485
Honda Accord Premature Brake Wear

Small rear brake pads + Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) = MASSIVE PREMATURE BRAKE WEAR

Honda Accord Premature Brake Wear Problems | HondaProblems.com
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Old 03-05-2014, 06:01 PM
 
Location: Indianapolis
3,681 posts, read 9,091,520 times
Reputation: 2378
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonuraja View Post
I drive Honda Accord 2009. Since last month, my brake pedal is getting stuck in up position, whenever I back out to get out of driveway or parking lot. It usually happens every now and then. It is completely stuck in UP position that I can't stop the car no matter how hard I pressure the pedal. It won't move down. The only way to stop is either putting it in park while the car is moving or use the hand brake. In last 2 weeks it happens 4 times, and I almost involved in 3 major accidents. No matter what I did I couldn't push down on the brake pedal either going forward or backward. My hand brake or emergency brake helped. All this after my car passed the inspection for this year. I replaced my rotor, brake pads, did alignment, tire replacement all for passing the inspection and it did. I did tell the mechanics of my brake pedal problems, but they didn't find anything wrong with it.

Please help. What do you think is wrong with my car?
And you are still driving this car?? Even after the first time this happened? Are you trying to get hurt? Take it to a shop and have the brakes checked and don't drive it anymore.
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:49 PM
 
Location: White House, TN
6,483 posts, read 6,233,925 times
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Yeah, the brakes could wear out quickly, but it's not a terrible issue. I had a 2008 Accord for 25k miles (47-72k) and its brakes were wearing out by the end. They probably would have been replaced within 5k miles had the car not been totaled. (The brake pad issue and totaling were TOTALLY unrelated).

If it's that much of a problem, get a 2010-2012 Accord if you want that body style. They're a little more reliable anyway. I've had a 2008 and 2011.
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:59 AM
 
790 posts, read 1,275,496 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnownUnknown View Post
And them wearing down quickly, and potentially damaging the rotors requiring repairs that can up 500 and up?
Legitimate problem, I have the 2010 tsx basically an Accord Euro and its the same thing. The brakes wear down very quickly (under 25k miles) and the rotors tend to get warped. I would upgrade to an aftermarket performance rotor/pad set ASAP. I got the slotted with the performance pads and my rear brakes are solid now. Before the brakes were weak as hell compared to car weight and stopping power.
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:52 PM
 
2,369 posts, read 2,927,458 times
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easy fix. I had mine fixed before I totaled my accord. I think it was due to using cheap parts..well cheaper than normal
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:55 PM
 
2,369 posts, read 2,927,458 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnownUnknown View Post
My mother wants a 2010 Crosstour. Are these okay as well? They seem like they are just Accords, but I'm guessing the engine/transmission may differ.

after my Honda was totaled 2 years ago, I was thinking of the crosstour, but I ended up with a Toyota venza, which is similar in size to the crosstour.

I ended up with a v6 awd and I liked it. I didn't want the tour because its literally an accord with minor upgrades (think some upgrades to an EX-L) for more money.
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Old 04-28-2014, 06:16 AM
 
Location: NY
9,130 posts, read 20,109,800 times
Reputation: 11713
Not sure why we are dismissng this issue as an "easy fix" and "not that terrible."

Even if the owner can DIY the rear brakes themselves, having to replace the rear brakes every 20K miles is a rather significant expense in owning this car compared to later years (or other brands).

On the one my wife had, the rear brakes would not make it more than 20K miles. The heat generated also was killing the calipers in that time. So by 40K miles, it had to have 2 rear brake jobs already, pads, rotors, and calipers. (I did try to save the calipers too, but they just were shot).

Honda only paid for the first repair. After that, everyone is on their own.

It is not really a safety problem, but it is a huge maintenance expense in owning an early 8th gen Accord. I would not give an '08 or '09 a second look because of it.
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:26 AM
 
790 posts, read 1,275,496 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Checkered24 View Post
Not sure why we are dismissng this issue as an "easy fix" and "not that terrible."

Even if the owner can DIY the rear brakes themselves, having to replace the rear brakes every 20K miles is a rather significant expense in owning this car compared to later years (or other brands).

Pads are $17 at autozone, it takes less time to replace than an oil change.
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:36 AM
 
15,882 posts, read 20,766,410 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Checkered24 View Post
Even if the owner can DIY the rear brakes themselves, having to replace the rear brakes every 20K miles is a rather significant expense in owning this car compared to later years (or other brands).

On RockAuto.com, multiple brands of rear pads are under $20 and rotors are under $50. There are economy rotors for $20 each. You could walk away with this being a $60 brake job, or a $20 pad-slap if you are proactive and replace the pads before they wear to the backing plates. Also, you could do a little research and buy a longer lasting pad and rotor setup and prolong the time between brake jobs.

Either way, for the average DIYer for can handle a brake job this is a $100 brake job if you spring for better quality rotors and pads and 1-2 hours of time. Not a deal-breaker and a non-issue for most.




If you aren't a DIYer...you are stuck paying $400+ mechanic rates or whatever they charge.

Last edited by BostonMike7; 04-28-2014 at 08:58 AM..
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