Core Aeration of the Lawn: A necesssity? (lawns, fertilizers, bugs)

[titaniummd]

I live in Northern Florida. I have a company who services my lawn care and they were offering this service. Is core aeration of the lawn a necessity?

[FLPL75]

titaniummd
have you noticed a buildup of thatch at the base of the blades ?
Do you mow or do you have a service ?
If they are waiting to long between cuts and they don't use a mulching mower that chops it to a fine mulch you can get a build up
Here is a great article from U of F IAFS that has a lot of information on thatch it also talks about "core Aeration"
Thatch and Its Control in Florida Lawns

[titaniummd]

I will have to see if there is a build up of thatch. I have someone cut my grass. I believe he uses a mulching mower.

We use True Green for lawn treatment.

[Rtom45]

In my opinion, Tru Green is more of a marketing company than a lawn care company. You get what you pay for.
The purpose of core aerating is to releive soil compaction. This is especially a problem if you live in an area with clay soil. In that case aeration will help the quality of your lawn - it certainly won't hurt it.
If you have trouble with thatch buildup in your lawn, then you want the lawn detatched. This is a different process than aeration and serves a different purpose.

[kygman]

My dad (86 and still mowing his own yard) is totally hooked on aerating. Every other year he and a couple neighbors will rent an aerator and take care of all 3 yards at one time. Last aerator I checked on was $30/day for a 3 ft. and $42 for a 4 ft. HE says it helps get oxygen down in the soil and, if you want to reseed some, right after aerating is a great time. The seeds get in the holes and sprout and less chance of the birds eating them.
OUt of curiosity I googled core aeration and found this information from the Virginia Cooperative Information Service.
Known as a core aerator, it extracts 1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter cores of soil and deposits them on your lawn. Aeration holes are typically 1-6 inches deep and 2-6 inches apart. Other types of aerators push solid spikes or tines into the soil without removing a plug (spiking). These are not as effective because they can contribute to compaction. Core aeration is a recommended lawn care practice on compacted, heavily used turf and to control thatch buildup.

[FLPL75]

Originally Posted by titaniummd

I will have to see if there is a build up of thatch. I have someone cut my grass. I believe he uses a mulching mower.

We use True Green for lawn treatment.

They are going to offer all sorts of "extra services"
My biggest issue with the "big box" lawn service companies is how trained are the techs ?

We have been in our house almost 7 years and have never done any kind of aeration.
Remember we have very sandy soil so it is not necessary to "loosen" anything.

The most important question is "how does your lawn look ?"

As a matter of fact, I am going to a class today on "Managing Turf Problems"
I wonder if they will discuss this during class
lol I may even introduce the subject just to keep things interesting

[normie]

We started aerating 4 years ago, and I see a difference. We have clay soil, and aerating really helps with that. If you get together with your neighbors and rent an aerator you'll end up spending about $10-15 a piece and get a good upper body workout to boot.

[scottgalat]

The University of Florida & Texas A&M developed "Floritam" St Augustine grass for the warmer climates. The Univ of Fl States: "You should aerate at LEAST annually" they don't say this for nuthin'. Virtually every problem that a Floratam lawn encounters can be traced back to excessive thatch. Control the thatch, and you control the problems. One problem that can only be solved by aeration, and is one that almost every florida lawn has, is a tight, thatch "cap" right at the soil surface. Located right at the soil surface, it is usually a very densely packed 1/8" layer of thatch that water can't penetrate. Ditto for fertilizers and other chemicals. This layer isn't the traditional "thatch layer" aeration helps to control, but is a compressed layer directly under it that effectively "caps" the soil, keeping the lawn under-fed and under-watered. Aeration pokes 50,000 holes right through it, problem solved. Grass responds quickly. Thatch control is a biological process. Thatch needs to decompose. The decomposition process is active bacteria "feeding" on the dead plant material (thatch). Aeration increases the process. The bacteria is located in the "plugs" and is introduced into the thatch layer's top, as the plugs are dispersed. (don't rake them, leave them), speeding decomposition. Insect problems? I wouldn't treat for insects without first aerating. Chinch bugs are easy to kill. Grubs are hard.
Grubs live underground. How are you going to get the insecticide down to the depths needed to kill grubs, when you have 4" of grass, and 1" of thatch, that "cap" mentioned earlier and 4" of soil to penetrate before you reach the zone the grubs inhabit? Aerate it, direct pathway to the "sub-surface" is created. Your supposed to aerate once/twice each year. Do your neighbors a favor and do it right. The "crop" of insects your raising, will always be a problem for them, until you ALL disrupt their lifecycle.

[once-upon-chicago]

If you want a lawn in Phoenix its a must do. Soil is almost completely clay. Although in theory I'm against lawns here due to water but I love the green

[susancruzs]

I switched from a chain place to an established father/son/uncle operation and the difference in my lawn this year is noticeable (to me at least).

They come 8 times, 6 regular, 1 grub, and 1 aeration, which may or may not be necessary with my somewhat sandy lawn but I signed up for it anyway. I'm paying now for next year, saves me 15%.