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Some times it can be as simple as a pinched o-ring. Over time they can just give out. There are leak detectors, sniffers that can detect where it is leaking with a charged unit. I installed a/c unit's in Volvo's at the Volvo plant. After connecting the A/C machine, you run a vacuum for about 10 minutes to check for leaks. I've had to replace a pinched o-ring that wouldnt pull a vacuum. A quick fix. Granted there was no refrigerant to have to empty out. Check simple first, If you just throw parts at it, it can get expensive.
The man at the repair shop called it and air compressor, so why are you saying it is not an air compressor? And he explained to me the clutch and how it all works..
Because it doesn't compress air.
It compresses refrigerant.
I assure you, refrigerant is not air.
I can't help what sumgai calls it. It still doesn't compress air.
(Just FYI I'm a degreed mechanical engineer that spent 20 years in the automotive AC industry working as a design engineer for AC compressors. I do actually know what I'm talking about.)
As far as the condenser, why don't you ask him why he believes it needs to be replaced? Is there enough corrosion that leaks are imminent? Did he find leaks at the condenser as well as the compressor? Or maybe the leak was at the condenser but operating without refrigerant trashed the compressor (automotive AC systems rely on the circulation of refrigerant to circulate the oil that lubricates the compressor. A system operating correctly has temperature and pressure switches that should prevent the compressor from operating in a low-charge condition, but those switches can fail, although it would be a lot more common for them to fail open and not let the compressor operate even though there's not a system fault).
Or maybe the receiver-dryer is integrated with the condenser so the whole thing needs to be replaced? (If air and water vapor have gotten into the system you'd generally replace the receiver-dryer, if so equipped).
If your referring to a refurbished one, no one will put that in only a new one. I think a new one is best and would last longer.
No.. Most places are going to put in an aftermarket unit, pending on the vehicle. anyone other than a dealership at least. Once a vehicle hits a certain age.. There are no more new parts. Unobtanium parts. I heard tell, I think it was a Suzuki.. That wound up having to be scrapped because they couldn't get a replacement vent valve for the dang thing. Someone in an inspection state.
Rebuilt alternators, at least, are.. Generally as good as new. I think most rebuilt parts are, if they were done right. I guess it just depends on which little Chinese kid did the rebuild.
Oddly.. Looking at my vehicle, a rebuilt alternator is basically the same price as new. Don't see that a whole lot, but.. It's probably because not many have failed yet, being that my vehicle is an '18 Colorado.
But.. I wasn't speaking to remans.. I was just speaking towards aftermarket. I think you said your vehicle was an '11? Well, if we look at Rockauto.. If you want an OEM compressor.. that's $303.79 Gen-ye-wine Motorcraft.
Of course.. You can get a UAC compressor, whoever they are, for $171. Nearly half the price. Still a new compressor. Just not made by Ford/Motorcraft. Aftermarket.
Again.. Not something I'll do for most sensors. Never on an O2 sensor. On an O2 sensor for your vehicle, there's about a $30 difference in the price ($35 vs $65, ballpark) aftermarket vs OEM.. It's worth every penny of that extra $30 in my view. Standard Motor Products, which I believe is what NAPA and Advance and the like sell.. I just never have had luck with them. The best luck is when you don't get one bad out of the box.
As for the whole 'Air Compressor' debate. It's the A/C compressor. If someone called it an air compressor.. I'd know what they were talking about.. So.. I don't really feel the need to get snarky about it. Much bigger battles to be fought than that. It's like if someone says it's low on freon. Get over it. Everyone knows it's not freon, but everyone knows what you mean as well. Much easier to say Freon than R-1234yffy or whatever the new stuff is. Unless you're in a shop telling someone to fill it. At that point.. It's probably MUCH more important to be precise. Lest you wind up with R134a being put into a R1234yf system.
FWIW.. There's a number of parts that SHOULD be replaced when replacing a compressor. Usually sold as a 'kit'.. Again.. I'm no A/C expert.. I can deal with the electrical side, but once we get into the sealed system I'm not all that strong... Dryer, Condenser, o-rings, expansion valves generally should be replaced. Condenser, maybe not so much.. For your vehicle, again, assuming an '11.. That same UAC 'kit' is $291, including the condenser.
Going OEM.. In addition to the $303 for the compressor.. You're looking at $150 for the condenser, $30 for the expansion valve, $55 for the dryer, $20 for the O-Rings. So.. $560, ballpark, vs $290. And, that's before your mechanic marks up the parts cost. So.. ANY independent shop, unless you tell them OEM parts only, is going to use aftermarket to keep the bill down. Because.. They quote.. ~$800 for parts and their competitor quotes ~$400.. Who gets that job? The difference is one is using OEM and one aftermarket. This is also, somewhat, where people get snotty towards dealerships and say they're ripping people off. They're not. They're using those OEM parts.
I'll also mention, in the OEM vs Aftermarket debate.. At times.. There've been some aftermarket parts that were better than the OEM or fixed problems with the OEM part. I'm sure some folks around here could bring up some examples of that.
If your referring to a refurbished one, no one will put that in only a new one. I think a new one is best and would last longer.
I think I heard on the new recently that Ford parts are hard to get now. It must be true because they can order it at Auto Zone but it is out of stock.
The man at the repair shop called it and air compressor, so why are you saying it is not an air compressor? And he explained to me the clutch and how it all works. This is something I've never dealt with my other vehicles. Is it possible to check a condenser and not change it and only change the air compressor? He never mentioned the condenser in the beginning and only now or when he got me a price on the air compressor. I will ask when I call tomorrow.
a compressor is a compressor. it just does not cool well (actually at all) with air in it
The man at the repair shop called it and air compressor, so why are you saying it is not an air compressor?
As others have said, it's a compressor but not for compressing air, it compresses the refrigerant. Your house A/C system has one too. Google that stuff if you need to. It's faster than arguing with people here.
He's probably calling it an "Air" compressor because it's for your "air" conditioning. You could call it your "A/C compressor", or your "Air Conditioner compressor", it's just technically incorrect to call it an "Air Compressor".
Or go ahead and keep doing it if you want to keep sounding wrong. It's a free country.
PS: I just had two of my cars serviced for their A/C, they both had small leaks in the Schrader valves, which are the valves to fill/extract refrigerant in the system. It's not an expensive fix, unlike the compressor, which is pricey.
Another reason to replace a condenser is if the compressor has failed sufficiently to spread debris through the system. Fragments of busted compressor in a condenser could easily block the expansion valve and it'll be pretty much impossible to get it all out. Depending on the locations of various filters, debris in the evaporator and suction lines might not be much of an issue. I do know that sometimes an AC repair kit includes a filter to be installed in line to catch any bits that might be present.
a compressor is a compressor. it just does not cool well (actually at all) with air in it
If it doesn't have refrigerant, the oil (which is miscible with the refrigerant) won't circulate so not only won't the AC function, the compressor'll fail in short order too. This is why most automotive AC compressors don't make good air compressors for the shop. They pump out all their oil and then seize up. The exception is the old York-Tecumseh two cylinder compressor, because it has an oil sump. But most auto AC compressors use a total-loss or dry-sump lubrication principle.
If it doesn't have refrigerant, the oil (which is miscible with the refrigerant) won't circulate so not only won't the AC function, the compressor'll fail in short order too. This is why most automotive AC compressors don't make good air compressors for the shop. They pump out all their oil and then seize up. The exception is the old York-Tecumseh two cylinder compressor, because it has an oil sump. But most auto AC compressors use a total-loss or dry-sump lubrication principle.
funny you should mention that. these were found (mostly) on older chryco vehicles or AMCs like jeep...if you ever took one apart, you find they are awfully similar to what you might have on an old tractor, or in the shop for the shop Air system.
I took my vehicle into another place and now I have cold air ! They determined that I did not need to change my condenser and it was only the air compressor. He showed me the part and it and it was the clutch on it. It was loose and worn, nothing more. Also, it was fixed in less than 2 hours !
You're fortunate to have found a shop that was willing to replace just the clutch. Hang onto those guys.
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Update: I have cold air
