Can my old truck pull a travel trailer (mileage, pickup, motor)

[shortbed]

I have a 1979 Ford F150 with four wheel drive and a 300 cubic inch straight six cylinder engine. It has been loved but not restored, so most of the parts are original. It has good suspension, but the engine, transmission, drive shaft and rear end is all original.
Some time back there was a leak around my rear axles which I did my best to repair (new bearings and seals). I am looking at a 16 foot travel trailer. It also needs attention, but is in pretty good shape and has electric brakes.
So my question is: Will this truck pull a 16 foot travel trailer up and down hills and even mountains. Will it be safe on the highway. And is there anything I could do to make it safer if it needs to be.

[MrRational]

Originally Posted by shortbed

1979 Ford F150 four wheel drive and a 300 cubic inch straight six cylinder engine.... all original.
So my question is: Will this truck pull a 16 foot travel trailer up and down hills and even mountains.

Two questions here:
1) Would a 1979 F150 300cid 4WD pull a 16 foot travel trailer of Xlbs when new? (5000lb?)
2) Will your thirty-three year old runout example of that still do the same?

Start with Ford to see what the original specs could have handled back then.
If the answer is positive... go to a speed shop and put 'er on a Dyno and see what you have today.
If still positive...

And is there anything I could do to make it safer if it needs to be.

oil cooler, electric brakes

[SD4020]

I had a 79 F150 with a 300. I miss that engine. Electric brakes are a must. Can it pull it? Yes. Will it be fast? Nope. The 79 runs ideally at 55 MPH. That is how it is geared. Anything faster then that is hard on the engine and tanks your mileage. Make sure you have a radiator big enough to handle the load.

As far as reliablity that is a 34 year old pickup, anything can go wrong.

[thecoalman]

That particular motor is ideal for heavy loads, it has very high torque. It's better than a lot V-8's for torque which is what you need for hauling. I know because I had one that was in a 72 f-250.

As suggested look up the specs from Ford because it's the brakes and suspension that are the real issue.

If I was you I'd have all the brake lines replaced and have the brakes gone over thoroughly.

The 79 runs ideally at 55 MPH.

That was the max speed on mine and when I say max it must of been up around 4 or 5 thousand RPM, it was four speed and first gear was used every few years. LOL.

[StealthRabbit]

I worry about the 150 part + 4x4.... (Light duty and tall)

Keep tow weight and COG as low as possible. (tandem axle & under 3,000#)
6-10 ply Tires (stiffer sidewalls) ans EQUal Hitch and GREAT brakes. go SLOW... and go DOWN hills SLOWER.

I used f250's with 300s and hauled 5000#. They were not quick up hills, but would cruise all across WY at 85+ mph (in a tail wind...)

Some of the early 80's had TERRIBLE high geared 5 speed car tranny. stick with a manual truck tranny.

[SD4020]

Good point on making sure you are using a true light truck rated tire and not a passenger rated tire.

[shortbed]

Wow. I'm impressed. These were great answers.
I will look into getting a larger radiator that I can do.
And I will look into replacing my front rotors. They are a bit worn and new pads of course . . .
and new lines. I do have a little cash on hand now and maybe those light truck tires are a good idea.
But what is this Oil Cooler?
And I'm guessing the reference to the hitch is some kind of special stabilizer.
I can look that up on line.
I believe my truck is about 6,000 GVW and I found some site that rated 150's tow capacity at about ... can't find it now, but I think less than what the trailer should weigh.
I'm also a bit concerned about my clutch and the thought of sitting at a light on a hill with this thing behind me scares me a little.
The owner of the trailer I'm looking at said I could take it home for a few days and maybe that would be a good idea.
Go slow and easy and just see.
Gentlemen . . . thank you.

Jim

[SD4020]

Does your 79 have a 4 speed manuel? If so you won't need an oil cooler.

[StealthRabbit]

Why do I find only F100 specs for 79? (says 83 was switch to 150...)

I see an 'up to' 3960# towing spec and (no engine / tranny mentioned) Ford F100 Specifications | eHow.com
There are Ford Truck Forums that will be able to answer this better.

I have a friend that tows all over with his 300 ~ 1990 f150 (airstream tandem ~ 20 ft = HEAVY but good towing).

If you are Shortbed (as implied) be VERY careful on downhill / turns and it is EZ for trailer to STEER a pickup STRAIGHT by pushing your rear wheels off the road (On tight corners). BEST to use the trailer brake BEFORE even considering hitting your vehicle brakes, BE ADVISED (same on wet / icy roads... use trailer brakes to do the steering. ) With a shortbed, you will probably want a tandem axle trailer, as single might make you a 'see-saw' on partitioned interstate highways (concrete with expansion joints)
Be aware of 'Whip / amplification'; trailer sway at speed or slowing down.. USE TRAILER BRAKES FIRST... Lets don't make a mess. Always leave 2 - 3x the following distance and ALWAYS go slow downhill (hint... there is something BEHIND pushing, and IT wants to go STRAIGHT AHEAD !!!


Towing can be pretty stressful to engines.

Personally, I would do some research and consider adding an oil cooler to engine. They are REALLy cheap ($100) for benefit. BUT do it right (use coupling fittings and PRESSURE / Hydraulic hose and crimped fitting. NOT barb and screw clamp. ) Braided stainless lines are even better (and be sure your low oil indicator works in case you even pop break a line)

Yes, if you have a truck 4 spd (granny low) you will be fine.

I ALSO run synthetic oils in engine and Tranny, and differentials. FULL synthetic is VERY good lubricity and HIGH heat tolerance. I use Amsoil 15w -40 HD Diesel oil in all my applications (except early diesels that don't like it, or old gas engines that leak.) I only change 1x / yr, but give it a qt and fresh (HIGH quality) filter every 5k. (Baldor, Fleetguard, Wisk...)

Clutch fan on radiator wil be another PLUS for towing, and free some HP.

Weakest link will proabably be your rear Axle / 3rd member (not 'floating' is in a 3/4 ton). Just be REALLY cautious NOT to over load in REVERSE (or be in 4wd). Up steep hill, stuck in a bog, backing into something.../ Reverse motion forces the pinyon away from ring and can stress / break / disengage the housing / gears.

I think you will be fine, BUT please be VERY careful and LEARN from a pro... / old timer. Escapees Travel club offers classes.

Towing is ez and fun, but far more dangerous (tricky) than most folks realize.

[shortbed]

I DO have a four speed with granny gear, but though I've owned this truck for over ten years and a 78 f150 for ten years before that, I have never towed anything
So . . . I've begun taking all your advice. This afternoon I had an experienced parts guy look at my front rotors and do a 'Whoa Nelly!' . . . they're pretty scored, pretty deep grooves. I will put that on my list . . . and this is really 'my' list, since, though I am a carpenter and not a mechanic, I do all this stuff myself.
There is also some play in the ball joint and that feels at the very frontier of my ability . . . balls joints on a four wheel drive. And last night I priced light truck tires online as well as shocks.
I've still got to figure out how to wire up the turn and brake wires and the electric trailer brakes (by the way how does one activate the trailer brakes before the truck brakes. What I've seen online suggests the trailer brakes are wired to the tow vehicle brake light wire?
And, yes, the truck is a short bed. Thanks for all those and all the other tips, guys.
Very helpful.

Jim