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I unplug the boot from the distributor cap. I insert the positive test lead into the boot. I insert ground lead into neg battery post. Turn ingnition on. I read 5 volts on the voltmeter. Was the test done correct.
So I unplug the wire and touch the point on the coil to see if I get a different reading. Still 5 volt.
I don't know that the voltage reading you did proves much. Typically you can test a coil by taking it out of the circuit and checking resistance (ohms) on both primary and secondary (you need the specs to know what you are looking at, but infinite ohms (open circuit) on either side, properly measured, means the coil is "open" and thus bad, likewise the primary circuit has a considerably lower resistance than the secondary - these are good for a rough check)
You can energize the coil and then interrupt the circuit by pulling a wire and see if that will cause a spark on an attached spark tester or spare spark plug.
It's been awhile since I tested a GM coil, but here is what conventional coils measure and I think the GM coil will not be far out of line:
Check continuity between both terminals beneath the coil tower; it should read around 1-2 ohms of resistance. Then check continuity or resistance between each flat terminal and the coil tower--it should be around 7-9.6 ohms of resistance.
MSD's always work! I also like the pills you can put in to keep unauthorized personnel from hot rodding your car when you aren't around! Those pills also double as a rev limiter.
A week ago I was installing a tach on my Vulcan Nomad. A V twin, with 4 plugs. Coil 1 runs cly 1 and coil 2 runs cly 2.
The tach instal was basic, no problem untill I found no (+) and or (-) markings on the coils.... None Nada... A glance in the shop manual color wiring code was also confusing since both primary leads go to the ecu directly.
So then I turned on Power and checked for which primary was the hot lead. All set, but the question is, IS it common these days coils are no longer marked (+) (-)?
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Those pills also double as a rev limiter.
