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This is my second time trying to take care of my care by myself. Last time it was an oil change, where I jacked-up the oil pan bolt but wasn't able to get that and the oil filter off. Even then I find out it's exactly the same price as taking it to a oil change shop. However, I will need to dispose of the oil somehow.
This time I want to replace my spark plugs and again I hit another snag. I'm told that if I remove the boots from the spark plug, I could wreck the boot. I already bought the spark plugs and the socket, about $60. Now I may need to get the boots/wires.
I guess I'm looking for encouragement, if anything. I'd really like to do these things on my own but I keep hitting walls and get discouraged. I then taking my car to a shop and then realize that the price for buying plugs and boots is about the same, maybe a little more, if I do take it to a shop.
I've watched the tutorials and videos that are all on-line. Most newer models, at least the 4-cyl, have something on top of the spark plugs and all you have to do is unscrew them and unscrew the spark plug.
Mine has a rubber boot over each spark plug and most cases, they are welded right to the plug. While taking a pair of pliers and trying to pry the boot off could work, the potential of wrecking the boot itself is also there.
I've watched the tutorials and videos that are all on-line. Most newer models, at least the 4-cyl, have something on top of the spark plugs and all you have to do is unscrew them and unscrew the spark plug.
Mine has a rubber boot over each spark plug and most cases, they are welded right to the plug. While taking a pair of pliers and trying to pry the boot off could work, the potential of wrecking the boot itself is also there.
That's going to be one of the tougher engines to changes plugs on. The main problem being that 3 of the plugs are on the backside of the engine, and there's VERY little room between the engine and firewall.
Grab the boot firmly, and twist. Should come off easily. Purchase a little bit of dielectric grease and apply to the tip of each spark plug when you put the boots back on.
Honestly, you should change the wires as well especially of they are original and have high miles. The resistance value can change, insulation breaks down, and the wires arc causing misfires.
I've watched the tutorials and videos that are all on-line. Most newer models, at least the 4-cyl, have something on top of the spark plugs and all you have to do is unscrew them and unscrew the spark plug.
Mine has a rubber boot over each spark plug and most cases, they are welded right to the plug. While taking a pair of pliers and trying to pry the boot off could work, the potential of wrecking the boot itself is also there.
Not welded. Simply snug because no one moved them in long time.
Don't do pliers. You will tear the boot. They are only stubborn, but with some wigglage will pop off.
What you also need is dielectric grease, anti-seize compound, and new wires. Wires usually last much shorter than plugs, around 30-35 000 miles. Modern GM cars have 100 000 miles plugs in them and of course, that's what you bought, right? Iridium tipped ones.
Yours do have metal shields on them or not? Atop of boots? Those are heat shields and can be removed before you remove wire with plug boot.
Anyhow. Start in the front. Grasp boot snug with both hands fingers, spin left right to break loose, and pop it off. It may happen with quite an impact, so be prepared.
Boxes you described, sitting atop of plugs, are solid state ignition packs. You have ignition packs with wires running towards plugs. So you disconnect wire from both and replace.
My 5.3L Vortec has all wires same length. If yours are different, make sure to replace them one at a time, matching length of each.
Before you reinstall plugs back in, apply a dab of anti seize to threads. Not too much, just a narrow smear across one side.
Before you reinstall wires, pack dab of dielectric grease into both plug and ignition pack ends of each wire, as in - with a screwdriver. This will prevent oxidation and assure long lasting electrical contact.
As of the rear of the engine plugs - tough. Costs $547 dealership to do them on my wife's RX300, but takes me only 40 minutes and scraped knuckles to DIY them. Swivel socket adapter comes very handy.
You should buy repair manual and use it as a guide. Or, sign up with Alldata online. $5 a year for 5 year subscription.
Unfortunately, we don't have a manual for your Aztec. Basically, though, what it involves is the same procedure as described in our Pontiac Trans Sport manual. You have to rotate the engine forward by using a ratcheting strap connected to the radiator support and the engine lifting eye, then unbolt the torque struts and tighten the strap to pull (rotate) the engine forward, which should give you enough room to access the rear bank spark plugs.
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