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Why is the question? Why when you must drill a hole thru the dead bolt/screw and then fuss around to back it out with a EZ out, which swells the thread shank into the hub, making it more work over all? if the hub is a blind hole then maybe a EZ make sense. But if the hole is open then all that labor is just costly time.
All the time I get people who bring me nasty beat up metal fasteners, that prove they spent hours of time munging things up. In a fairly short time with either a drill motor or torches i have removed the problem, but it would be faster and far easier if i had the stuck fastener before it were all munged up.
And then some guys just don't quit and frig up one fastener and move on to the next leaving me will everyone all munged up.
And then some guys just don't quit and frig up one fastener and move on to the next leaving me will everyone all munged up.
I've not had much luck with easy-outs on anything but I keep a set around. They usually shatter before the screw breaks loose. I sometimes use a propane torch to heat the metal around the stuck screw, or bolt, if that's possible without setting things on fire. The best thing for the old screws that hold the brake drums on a Ford 8n tractor is an impact driver. Those screws are usually pretty well stuck with half century of brake dust and gear oil. If an impact driver and heat doesn't get it, it would be time for a drill bit but I've never had to drill one out yet. I've had nearly 30 of the 8ns in just the past few years. I have 3 now, well, two 8ns and one TO30.
Anytime you work on a tractor that has spent its life parked in a pasture, and that has had 10 or 20 different owners, you cannot believe the haywire engineering some of them have.
I've not had much luck with easy-outs on anything but I keep a set around. They usually shatter before the screw breaks loose. I sometimes use a propane torch to heat the metal around the stuck screw, or bolt, if that's possible without setting things on fire. The best thing for the old screws that hold the brake drums on a Ford 8n tractor is an impact driver. Those screws are usually pretty well stuck with half century of brake dust and gear oil. If an impact driver and heat doesn't get it, it would be time for a drill bit but I've never had to drill one out yet. I've had nearly 30 of the 8ns in just the past few years. I have 3 now, well, two 8ns and one TO30.
Anytime you work on a tractor that has spent its life parked in a pasture, and that has had 10 or 20 different owners, you cannot believe the haywire engineering some of them have.
Oh sure i can, believe that is..... I see 18 gauge wire where large clevis pins should be in articulating joints on tractors bob cats and back hoes. I see rusty bolts on saw mills and exhaust studs and nuts rusted away, moon craters of drillings around studs in alloy heads.
I feel bad for you if you don't know Mr Hot Wrench well indeed, as the lowly propane is really meant for light copper soldering in a pipe where no water remains. I suspect you know all this and just don't like the gas man and his lease contracts. i don't but i must have acetylene and o2 gas.
Oddly I have never worked on a ford 8n, but i most certainly know what they are.
I own several sets of EZ outs from Snap On to Mac and more, but i sure hate ever really needing to use them.
The impact driver i use most is Blue Point, but i have a few others that some how showed up over the years. Once i was a Euro foreign car mechanic at the time the word tech became popular, but i was offended by the new term, knowing well my areas on car to the point I could with east beat the test systems computers of the day.
On old fashion points and condenser (antique) systems I can still beat any computer made by man to in my head diagnose any symptoms I can hear, see or feel.
On anything I install almost no matter what the parts are I use anti seize and even when a shop manual will state red stud and bearing mount loctite as i would rather a part come loose than seize tight.
A part of that is also living in salt belt New Hampshire where a 3 year old car is about all rusted out on the under side. last year for friends I worked on a 2008 chevy pick up that no longer had any working brake lines, and no rear wheel backing plates. The entire brake system was a mess and almost no parts were of any use at all other than the master and the ABS. Even the rear end filler plug was so badly rusted i was unable to get it out and simply made a now location and made a new plug instead.
The parts alone were more than 1,400.00 dollars.... I begged them to junk it then and still beg them to junk it now.
Surprised that I am the first to mention that you can get left-handed drill bits, these are a little better for stuff like these rotor screws, since the drilling action tends to loosen the screw rather than tighten it. They are not necessary by any means but are a nice touch.
Good point about the Japanese Phillips screw being different, and about using new screws with anti-seize.
Usually just drilling the head off using a bigger drill bit will free the rotor and is what the pros do all the time. Done properly it won't damage the rotor, and in most cases you want the rotor off to replace it anyway, as posted the stub of the screw will generally be easy enough to just turn out.
Final thought- goes without saying that eye protection is needed when doing any of the above operations...
I have those Mitch, but i seem to forget i do most of the time.. I think bits are about the same degree angle commonly speaking as the screw chamfer holes in most cases. In the shop any time I question that for taper allen heads (aka flush) I just match a bit to the screw head by eye. The angle is either right on or it's wrong and i get another bit of chamfer cutter
I feel bad for you if you don't know Mr Hot Wrench well indeed, as the lowly propane is really meant for light copper soldering in a pipe where no water remains. I suspect you know all this and just don't like the gas man and his lease contracts. i don't but i must have acetylene and o2 gas..
I work on the tractors as a retirement hobby but have always worked on my own cars and equipment. I tell people I worked for the US Department of Agriculture as a desk jockey for so many years that my tractor hobby sort of removes some of my shame.
I agree on the acetylene and O2. I kept bottles at my other shop but haven't done that yet here at my farm. It's been so hot down here in Texas this summer my tractors have not seen a lot of action the past few months. I need to put a clutch and throwout bearing in the Ferguson but I find that, more and more, my old body likes to sit in front of the swamp cooler better than be out in the hot barn.
We don't have much rust out here. Even my old 88 year old un-restored Dodge doesn't have any rust. No brake lines on that car. What brakes it has are mechanical and only on the rear wheels.
No one really needs brakes in west Texas. I am sure that is true since i rode my motorcycle on I-10 east bound there, and found the triple piggy back thing was somewhat unsettling, but the Pony Express Station was pretty cool!
Because some of us are OCD and can't sleep at night knowing screws with the heads drilled off are still in there. lol
Besides that, with the right tool (impact driver), I can have them out before you even get the drill bit in your drill.
Since we're talking about muffed-up screw heads, I wouldn't bet on that.
"with the right tool (impact driver), I can have them out before you even get the drill bit in your drill."
1 It IS the tool to start with first ....
2 If the screw head breaks off , it too is the end of problem!
Of course if the screw head is muffed up, then all bets are off and it's drilling time again.
Oh it's Drilllllling time again &^%$%^%$
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