PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench? (wheels, work, year, spark plugs)
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
PB works, but isn't as fast and it really stinks bad. Something new and maybe up and comingis a Seafoam NEW product or at least it is to me and it is a foaming oil that if it works as good as Deep Creep, or better, will be my number 2 choice.
It don't have any nasty stink and the can says it will work upside down. The can is basicly white, and has a odd rounded top unlike any other can I ever saw before.
My point about the breaker bar is *not* to exert *more* torque. The point is to get more leverage so you can exert *enough* torque with better control.
I don't know about other people, but I have better results with a longer wrench and just understanding that I can't pull full force on it without breaking things.
Pity that none of us are "boots on the ground" with the OP, since any old hand can show him how much is enough and how much is too much.
Just finished switching out the spark plugs. I used a breaker bar and instead of trying to exert as much force as needed to make the 1/8 turn I simply limited myself and tried to find the minimum force I would need.
By time I got to the 3rd and 4th ones I had a better feel for it.
Again a great help this thread was and it turns out I did not even need to use the PB Blaster at all.
Great news. I hope you added anti seize on the threads and worked the plug in and out to work the anti seize on the head side threads some. That a plastic or rubber tubing was used to start the plugs in. Pretty much if you use a tubing that is snug, or a old plug wire with it's rubber insulator there is 0 chance of cross threading plugs.
If you didn't use anti seize yank the plugs pretty soon and gither done.
Up heya' in cow hampster where the books say to use locktitie I most often used anti seize instead.
I don't worry about things falling off, I worry about being able to get them off.
Trying another way to say what Mitch is saying with a bar you push about equal on the bar right directly over the extension, which keeps the extention lined up dead on straight in theory.
I am not sure how right handed guys do this exactly. I was born lefty and changed by school to be righty which leaves me equally bad at scholarly things, leaves me lefty is sporting things, and as a righty is domestic things.
For example i salom water ski lefty, paddle with kayak spoons lefty. I write righty if you can call it that. I shoot long guns lefty, but hand guns righty, swapping feels funny.
Eating with common dinner wears I get confused and end up stabbing myself in the upper lip with both hands. LOL
Working inside cars doors on the driver sides I can beat the book hands down easy, go to the other side and do the same thing and it takes longer. Can't reach up theya' lefty.
I would pull rather than push on the ratchet or breaker bar, and for right-handed threads and a plug that's more or less vertical that means I am pulling with the left hand and holding the extension and/or ratchet head with the right when taking them out.
I'm semi-ambidextrious (and don't have a master eye FWIW, drove my Dad nuts when starting to teach me to shoot) so most mechanic tasks I do "left-handed" during dis-assembly and "right-handed" during assembly.
Again my point is the "wrong" way to do it is just to put a wrench on a fastener and push or pull with one hand, you can get away with this using say a long-arm box end wrench, but with a socket and extension you are not just twisting the fastener, but particularly a tall fastener like a sparkplug you are bending it as well, which ain't good. This is one reason that a fastener you might break with hand tools can frequently be taken apart with no damage with an air impact - the impact makes a "clean" torque. The rattling effect of the impacts helps too of course.
OP, any good industrial supply will have anti-seize in not just the common aluminum base, but also copper and nickel. But get a tube of the ordinary stuff at any auto parts store if you don't have any. Put some on the spark plug threads, now that you know what you are doing it will be easy to pop out each plug and but a bit on the threads.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
