The big IF is getting them turned out 1/8th turn.
I use heated methods which worked better IMO. I have seen my fair share of plugs snap off cold. They gag up on the carbon layer at the starter thread. Things are a little softer hot.
I like a bit more than a dab of anti seized going in too, a good solid coating of all the threads. Not big and lumpy, but well filled threads.
I also use a like plug wire plug holder, to start these plug threads, and if the engine is a first time anti seized threaded engine i wind the plug in and out several times to get anti seize on the head side threads.
I live in Salt hell, were even in summer salt is used to keep road dust down and it gets everywhere.
On any older car around here you can pull off the kick panels inside under the dash and find all sorts of dusty crud and salt corrosions.
I use kroil too. In lieu of that my next choice is dextron ATF one to one with acetone, No flames, no smoking. You makee big Boom!
IMO the plugs are a steel core and in heat swell up bigger. The alloy head will grow bigger hot too, but not be clamped down tight as it is cold. In my personal experience heat and lots of it always works. On really rusted things not yet broken, maybe not having any wrench really fit anymore, heat will save the day. There ratio of steel to alloy is different in the same heat, so there is a larger opening than the steel can fill.
This past summer i did up work on the most rusty truck so far i have ever worked on. With white hot heated bolt heads i forged wrenchs on these bolts kind of forming new heads.
It took a long time to pull very few bolts but none broke, and once i could hold on to them they all came out. On that truck the only bolt i didn't bother with was the rear end oil filler which used to have a 3/8th inch drive square hole. The hole was ovaled and almost round, and I saw no point.
I just machined a new fitting and welded that on the punkin cover in the right height, and used a new plug in that.
Maybe over 3 or more days you can use kriol or the home nmade version and run the engine till it begins to feel warm, almost hot, and then shut the engine off. The heating, but not to the point of burning off the oil, with cooling should assist in moving metals so the oil can flow.
It will be a critical error to work overly fast.
Another aid if you have access to air is to use a air ratchet set lower than full torque to vibrate NOT Turn the plugs. What mmakes this all almost worthless is the plugs are sealed, where as not that much else is. This can be a real big problem if you loose your patience and work it too fast.
Then the good side of that besides lots of new gaskets and parts will be messing around with YOUR NEW EZ outs, and probably a helicoil set.
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