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1. Not sure, I've never used aluminum rods. However since they're lighter, it will lighten the rotating assembly which should let you wrap up the engine quicker.
2. A slip n slide Powerglide can handle transbrake holeshot launches IF built properly. A "glide" is a good 1/8 trans when built right and when a very high stall is used.
3. Suspension...I'd look for polyurethane bushings, Comp Engineering 90/10 shocks, a 4 link rear with either a Dana 60, a Ford 9 inch or a GM 12 bolt, sticky slicks..with a line lock hooked up for burnouts, a driveshaft safety loop and depending on how fast you're looking to go a tranny blanket. Also an aftermarket safety harness and a good roll cage.
4. I think the "rpm to launch" depends on where your engine builds it's peak torque, and maybe launch just a few rpms just under that.
5. Me personally I'd much rather build my own as opposed to buying someone elses' headaches. But you can also get good deals too. If the seller claims it runs 10's in the 1/4 I'd ask to see it on video. I'd also get the NHRA rulebook for running whatever 1/4 you plan to run/the seller claims it runs and verifying the car is equipped with all the safety gear mandated by the NHRA.
You might come out ahead too if you bought a rolling chassis (no eng/trans) and just built your own engine/trans...that way at least you know what's in the combo.
I did see the Monza you posted about....while a good candidate for racing, keep in mind the lighter the car the faster. Someone put a 454 big block in that car which only adds weight and makes the nose heavy. While big blocks have their place in something like a full size or a mid sized car (think Impala or Chevelle), a car like a Monza would be better suited with a 400 sbc, especially now that you can stroke one to what else...454 cubes.
Also don't rule out turbos or superchargers....boosted engines can make up for short falls of cubes. So can nitrous but you have to refill the bottle plus tune the engine to it w/o blowing it up.
1. Not sure, I've never used aluminum rods. However since they're lighter, it will lighten the rotating assembly which should let you wrap up the engine quicker.
2. A slip n slide Powerglide can handle transbrake holeshot launches IF built properly. A "glide" is a good 1/8 trans when built right and when a very high stall is used.
3. Suspension...I'd look for polyurethane bushings, Comp Engineering 90/10 shocks, a 4 link rear with either a Dana 60, a Ford 9 inch or a GM 12 bolt, sticky slicks..with a line lock hooked up for burnouts, a driveshaft safety loop and depending on how fast you're looking to go a tranny blanket. Also an aftermarket safety harness and a good roll cage.
4. I think the "rpm to launch" depends on where your engine builds it's peak torque, and maybe launch just a few rpms just under that.
5. Me personally I'd much rather build my own as opposed to buying someone elses' headaches. But you can also get good deals too. If the seller claims it runs 10's in the 1/4 I'd ask to see it on video. I'd also get the NHRA rulebook for running whatever 1/4 you plan to run/the seller claims it runs and verifying the car is equipped with all the safety gear mandated by the NHRA.
You might come out ahead too if you bought a rolling chassis (no eng/trans) and just built your own engine/trans...that way at least you know what's in the combo.
I did see the Monza you posted about....while a good candidate for racing, keep in mind the lighter the car the faster. Someone put a 454 big block in that car which only adds weight and makes the nose heavy. While big blocks have their place in something like a full size or a mid sized car (think Impala or Chevelle), a car like a Monza would be better suited with a 400 sbc, especially now that you can stroke one to what else...454 cubes.
Also don't rule out turbos or superchargers....boosted engines can make up for short falls of cubes. So can nitrous but you have to refill the bottle plus tune the engine to it w/o blowing it up.
If this ever happens to me on a hard launch, what should i do.... leave the car and run home to escape embarrassment ?! : YouTube - Drag Racing - so FUNNY
Thread...What is the point of being married......etc etc
8/11/2010 at 12;50 PM Post # 118
Not being picky or anything it is just that at my tender age my memory is still pretty good...besides I was a NHRA licensed owner/driver of a dragster with the 9.99 index for the 1/4 mile so do have a little knowledge when it comes to building a race engine (in the trade) and car for a living.
Many of the above posts are informative but I would suggest starting out building a car of your own with the usual mistakes that go with it and not have to live with a setup that may have failed someone else in the past...good reason for selling.
I was a engine builder and studied the racing results of others and thus came up with my own formula and improvements.
Read your post that I showed and tell me that I read it wrong per quote.
If this ever happens to me on a hard launch, what should i do.... leave the car and run home to escape embarrassment ?! : YouTube - Drag Racing - so FUNNY
well first off if no one got hurt you laugh. then you feel sorry for the guy cause you know it is going to cost him tons of $$$ and time to fix it.
Just getting into racing at the 1/8 th mile Strip near me.
Questions :
1. Looking to buy a race car in the $10-13,000 range and have found a couple with aluminum rods ; I want to drive the race car from my house to the strip which is 3 miles each way. WIll it be alright to do this with a motor having aluminum rods ?
2. Im looking at cars having a 2 speed Glide trans . Are these reliable for hard launching using a trans brake ? The rwhp on the cars im looking at are about 600 .
3. What is the MINIMUM i should be looking for as far as the suspension goes ?
4. Typically, at what RPM is good to launch at after a good burnout ?
5. Any tips for buying a race car appreciated.
Thanks.
I see nothing wrong with your goal for a first drag car. While I am not a fan of powerglides, as they have proven to be slower in many cars I've swapped them into, they will hold up if they have at least the BTE modified or TCI modified front pump, but preferred the complete aftermarket billet front pump. 4link is always a great suspension to work with. But findout when the Heim joints were last changed and how many passes are on the ones in the car. NEVER, and I mean NEVER go for the cheap Heim joints in a 4-link or laddder bar rear suspension. Always put the very best in.
Remember, tuning the 4 link is best by experienced people, but I HIGHLY recommend Jerry Bickle Race Cars Chassis Wizzard c-d. So much to learn that we would take another 10 pages up here.
Buy the very best prepped car you can, with as much current date coded items such as Damper (some people call it harmonic balancer), Flywheel/flexplate guard, Transmission shield, Seat Belts! Extremely important to have current datecoded seatbelts. Your helmet will need to be at least a Snell rating of 105 or better.Get a car with a cage that is already NHRA or IHRA certified to 8.50, and if it has been in the past, but say the owner hasn't went racing, as long as you don't mind the 75-100 bucks for getting it certified checked, thats ok too.
The other things you asked, are directly related to exact car and engine/rearend combo, etc.
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