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Old 01-09-2019, 12:11 PM
 
15 posts, read 12,005 times
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Hey All,

My family will be closing on a high ranch in Dix Hills in February and had some questions as we have never owned a home before (moving from an apartment in Queens). Its hard to say how the rest of the winter will be but we will not be moving to the house till early May due to our current apartment lease as well as some smaller renovations (painting, hardwood floors) that we will do ourselves during the weekends. Since we will be there only on the weekends, what theromostat temp would you set it to? I know if I look at weather.com or equivalent a week out, I can maybe increase or decrease it but lets say if the temps stay in the 30s. I plan to speak to the owners about specifics about the temp they set it at and usually when the pipes freeze during the walkthru but any tips regarding our situation would be greatly appreciated. Its a 2800 square foot high ranch (lower level is ground level), heating is oil and we plan to be there for the weekends. I guess if the temps are in the teens, I can stay over and keep an eye on it worst case. So any tips/advice regarding temperature, water, etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 01-09-2019, 12:13 PM
 
124 posts, read 109,245 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiggs1219 View Post
Hey All,

My family will be closing on a high ranch in Dix Hills in February and had some questions as we have never owned a home before (moving from an apartment in Queens). Its hard to say how the rest of the winter will be but we will not be moving to the house till early May due to our current apartment lease as well as some smaller renovations (painting, hardwood floors) that we will do ourselves during the weekends. Since we will be there only on the weekends, what theromostat temp would you set it to? I know if I look at weather.com or equivalent a week out, I can maybe increase or decrease it but lets say if the temps stay in the 30s. I plan to speak to the owners about specifics about the temp they set it at and usually when the pipes freeze during the walkthru but any tips regarding our situation would be greatly appreciated. Its a 2800 square foot high ranch (lower level is ground level), heating is oil and we plan to be there for the weekends. I guess if the temps are in the teens, I can stay over and keep an eye on it worst case. So any tips/advice regarding temperature, water, etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Get your boiler tuned up and checked out right after you close. If it has a clean bill of health, set it for 60 and you should be fine.
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Old 01-09-2019, 12:16 PM
 
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I had a similar situation in 2013 and kept the thermostat at 60. Make sure any outdoor spigots are winterized if they aren't already. Inground sprinklers too, if the house has them.

Plumbers usually say 55 is a safe minimum but of course that depends on how well insulated the walls and pipes are. To be on the safe side I set it at 60 that winter while the house was vacant but visited once or twice a week just to check on things.

If we get another Polar Vortex hit like we had last January, I'd suggest upping the thermostat(s) to a bit over 60 temporarily.

ETA: Some homeowners have their plumbing/heating guy add antifreeze to the boiler/heating system. There are pro and con opinions to this but it's an option if you are really concerned. Of course that protection is only for the baseboard etc pipes should the system not be working due to an extended power outage or other issue. It doesn't protect your regular water lines in any way and that's what most people are concerned about.
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Old 01-09-2019, 01:13 PM
 
14,394 posts, read 11,290,724 times
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I would do 4 things right after you close if you’re not moving in right away.

1) change the locks
2) set up internet service (doesn’t have to be super fast, just good enough)
3) install an alarm system like Ring or Simplisafe (sensors on all doors, one motion detector. Ring is only $10 a month for central monitoring which will lower your insurance anyway).
4) install a WiFi thermostat for each zone (Honeywell Sensi works well, around $100 each)

I sold my home in 2014 and moved out of state, but we moved in January and the house did not close until April. Jan/Feb that year was brutal, and the idiot buyer’s inspector TURNED OFF the furnace. I had it set at 55.

Luckily my WiFi thermostat sent me emails saying it was having trouble keeping the temperature so I called my agent who went over and resolved it. The house was down to 45 degrees by that point. I guarantee had I not had this in place I would have had a frozen house and burst pipes.

A WiFi thermostat also lets you control the temperature remotely, so if you are on your way out you can raise it up so it’s warmer by the time you get there. And you can check it anytime - if you forget to turn down after you leave you can fix that too.

The alarm and lock change are just common sense. If people around know you’re doing renovations and not living there you don’t want someone breaking in.

Also by setting up internet earlier you can stream music while you work, etc.
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Old 01-09-2019, 02:22 PM
 
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you also might want to confirm how much heating oil there is at time of closing. Worst thing would be to try turning up the house temp remotely only to discover you're out of oil

More broadly, I'd suggest getting a list of vendor contacts (heating oil, landscaper, etc) so you at least have starting point if there's an emergency. often times the old vendors are quite familiar with the house but of course you have no obligation to use them
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Old 01-09-2019, 02:40 PM
 
14,394 posts, read 11,290,724 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abrown84 View Post
you also might want to confirm how much heating oil there is at time of closing. Worst thing would be to try turning up the house temp remotely only to discover you're out of oil

More broadly, I'd suggest getting a list of vendor contacts (heating oil, landscaper, etc) so you at least have starting point if there's an emergency. often times the old vendors are quite familiar with the house but of course you have no obligation to use them
That’s usually a requirement for closing anyway - getting a measurement so buyer can purchase oil from seller. But a good idea.
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:32 PM
 
Location: under the beautiful Carolina blue
22,687 posts, read 36,870,810 times
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Find out where the pipes run from the homeowners and that can guide you as well....my parents townhouse was on a slab and pipes running through the ceilings would regularly freeze in the winter (house was poorly insulated too).

A lot depends on the outside weather. I keep my downstairs at 60 overnight but when it's going to be cold day AND night, I keep it turned up over night so the pipes don't get too cold. I've dealt with frozen pipes, no fun and stressful.

Good luck with the house.
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:54 AM
 
345 posts, read 339,688 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjames68 View Post
I would do 4 things right after you close if you’re not moving in right away.

1) change the locks
2) set up internet service (doesn’t have to be super fast, just good enough)
3) install an alarm system like Ring or Simplisafe (sensors on all doors, one motion detector. Ring is only $10 a month for central monitoring which will lower your insurance anyway).
4) install a WiFi thermostat for each zone (Honeywell Sensi works well, around $100 each)

I sold my home in 2014 and moved out of state, but we moved in January and the house did not close until April. Jan/Feb that year was brutal, and the idiot buyer’s inspector TURNED OFF the furnace. I had it set at 55.

Luckily my WiFi thermostat sent me emails saying it was having trouble keeping the temperature so I called my agent who went over and resolved it. The house was down to 45 degrees by that point. I guarantee had I not had this in place I would have had a frozen house and burst pipes.

A WiFi thermostat also lets you control the temperature remotely, so if you are on your way out you can raise it up so it’s warmer by the time you get there. And you can check it anytime - if you forget to turn down after you leave you can fix that too.

The alarm and lock change are just common sense. If people around know you’re doing renovations and not living there you don’t want someone breaking in.

Also by setting up internet earlier you can stream music while you work, etc.
All of this
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Old 01-10-2019, 07:07 AM
 
15 posts, read 12,005 times
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Thanks for all of the replies so far. I am looking into buying a WiFi thermostat and a security system like ring. For locks, is this something that I would need a locksmith for? Use to changing locks on apartments myself but guessing it’s much harder on a house and there are more locks.
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Old 01-10-2019, 08:09 AM
 
14,394 posts, read 11,290,724 times
Reputation: 14164
Quote:
Originally Posted by jiggs1219 View Post
Thanks for all of the replies so far. I am looking into buying a WiFi thermostat and a security system like ring. For locks, is this something that I would need a locksmith for? Use to changing locks on apartments myself but guessing it’s much harder on a house and there are more locks.
If the locks are all consistent you can just get them rekeyed. When I bought my latest house I changed 2 different cylinders but then got all of them rekeyed to use a single key. Very helpful.

It's an hour's work for a locksmith, should cost well under $200 including a set of keys.

Also, if you're a Costco member they have a Ring Security kit for sale that includes the base station, keypad, range extender, 6 door/window sensors and a motion sensor for $239 + tax. If you have a smart phone and internet set up at the new house it'll take you an hour or 2 to set it all up. Then only $10 a month for central monitoring. I used to pay $30-40 a month to the "big name" security company but no longer.

You can get fancy with cameras, etc. but this will be sufficient. If you get a Ring Doorbell w/camera that's covered by that $10 a month fee too.

For thermostats, a lot of people like Nest, but note you really need a C-wire. Many (if not most) LI homes do NOT have a C-wire running to their thermostat. The Sensi runs on batteries and doesn't need one. I've heard the Nest works without a C-wire but only if you have both central air and heat (it "steals" power from the one it's not controlling I think).
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