Deep wells: should pipe be plastic or metal? (standard, vent, best)
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Thanks for all the info. The driller called me and said that we did something wrong??? The well is 955" deep, and has a schedule 120 white pipe with a submersable pump...this is the third time we have had problems with it. He assured me that with a pressure tank (about 25 gals)at the top and one in the house ( 60 gals).NO problem...he also said there was a low water level safety that would turn the pump off...???
Well, the pipe burst again at the same level as before, about 4 feet from the pump. The water goes either directly to the house, about 200feet away, then back down to an outbuilding. Or, it can go into a 4500 gal. holding tank. The water was going to the house and then down to the outbuilding. The pressure tank has lots of R-38 insulation around it and is boxed in ( he told me froze up--not that cold at that point). Then he said we must of turned it off?????
So, I told him last night to fix it now...we have spent too much $$ on this....he said no to call someone else..I said ok, I will call my attorney.....
Not very happy trails today..
comments appreciated.
HW and SunInHair
I always have questions. How did you get the pump out??? How old is this well???
.... The driller called me and said that we did something wrong??? The well is 955" deep, and has a schedule 120 white pipe with a submersable pump...this is the third time we have had problems with it. He assured me that with a pressure tank (about 25 gals)at the top and one in the house ( 60 gals).NO problem...he also said there was a low water level safety that would turn the pump off...???
Well, the pipe burst again at the same level as before, about 4 feet from the pump.
The water goes either directly to the house, about 200feet away, then back down to an outbuilding. Or, it can go into a 4500 gal. holding tank. The water was going to the house and then down to the outbuilding. The pressure tank has lots of R-38 insulation around it and is boxed in ( he told me froze up--not that cold at that point). Then he said we must of turned it off?????
So, I told him last night to fix it now...we have spent too much $$ on this....he said no to call someone else..I said ok, I will call my attorney.....
The driller does not understand the problem and has thrown things at it like an additional pressure tank etc.. Now since it happened again, the driller is throwing hands in the air and flailing around getting pissy and willing to walk away; all at your expense and now leaving you with no water, right?
So sue the driller for the costs you've suffered from the time he left after installing the pump originaly, and for what it is going t ocost you to fix the problem. That is going to be the cost for 1"-1.5" galvanized pipeand installation.
Tell your attorney that the driller's choice of 120 or any other PVC is the problem because with the low pressure cut off, he is admitting that the water level is falling to the pump's inlet which will prevent the pump from cooling, which makes it deliver warmer to hot water and that derates/decreases the pressure rating of the drop pipe (PVC) and it fractures/blows out/bursts and you have no water. There is a link in a post in a prevoius post that shows the pressure rating of PVC, including 120, and the derating chart. 120 PVC is on the left edge of the page that link you to.
The health department is not going to help, there is no codes to my kowledge concerning the type of drop pipe material too be used except it has to be NSF Standard 61 for potable water use. If the water level falls to 925' that means 925 * .433 (psi per foot of water) says 400 psi. That is above the pressure rating of all PVC. And the pressure rating is stated at 73*f.
So you have all the ammunitation you need. Call other drillers or better probably, a pump guy, with a pump hoist/derrick truck that can handle galvanized to 1000' and have them replace the pvc and any other type plastic. They also should make sure the pump is sized correctly for the depth of the water at peak usage.
The driller need to get HIS supplier to look at it. I will have ours look at the picture tomorrow. I have never seen any like this. Still get the health department involved.
I just talked to our local sanitarian from the health department. This is in Michigan. Yes, they would get involved. If is is not pumping enough water for the "size, design and intended use" they WOULD violate the driller.
Poor Bob will not sleep well now wondering where this is. LOL LOL LOL
The pump was pulled by the well driller. This pump has been in the well for about 90 days.....
I am awaiting another call from a different driller to get his perspective.
We have spent over $35,000 on this well project...
Sent one pix of the burst pipe, similiar to the last time.??
Appreciate your input.
Unhappy trails,
HW and SIH
I would not call an attorney at this time. If the health department can help, the last thing you want is the driller to say he can not go back there. Or, just do not let the driller know you are talking to one.
I didn't see the picture until just now, we were both typing at the same time.
As you can see, the pressure rating is 300 psi at 73*f. The damage is from heat decreasing the pressure rating and the water was warm enough to round the edges of the hole and bubble the surface around the hole.
Since the driller said no to doing anything for you report that to the state agency that licenses drillers and use all the leverage you can find and then get someone to fix this and sue if he doesn't reimburse your costs or do it himself.
Let us know what happens.
Question, was the power cable running by this spot? It's strange that more heat damage is not from the spot down to the pump. Or was there more damage?
What is the brand of the pump? How much drop pipe? The is the level of water in the well?? This should be on your well log. If you could post your log, that would be GREAT!!!! My supplier is wondering if the pump is approved.
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Pump out etc.
