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I just finished building a shelving unit for one of the small closets in my master bedroom's dressing area. I used 4 48" 1x12s for the sides (cut one to 36" due to 7'3" ceilings on the second floor of my 1960 house), adding a top to both units before attaching the 2 units together with mending plates, then attaching them to the wall in several places (and I still have to add 2 more clothing bars after I cut them to fit) ...
Oh, the CLOSET isn't at an angle, I swear! Just the picture and some of the shelves. The unit is functional but it's only a tiny bit better than something Homer Simpson would build. You can likely tell that some of the shelves are wonky -- one slightly tilted up, another slightly tilted down. I just could not get the right angles perfect.
My electrician suggested that I use a speed square, and of course I have some (different sizes) but haven't used them for building shelves like these. I googled but the responses weren't applicable to the kind of shelving I'm making. At SOME point I'd like to fix these (and paint them and paint the closet too!) but for now I'd just like to understand how to use a speed square for shelving like this, as there is a plate rack that I bought the parts for but STILL haven't made because I'm afraid of screwing it up.
I just finished building a shelving unit for one of the small closets in my master bedroom's dressing area. I used 4 48" 1x12s for the sides (cut one to 36" due to 7'3" ceilings on the second floor of my 1960 house), adding a top to both units before attaching the 2 units together with mending plates, then attaching them to the wall in several places (and I still have to add 2 more clothing bars after I cut them to fit) ...
Oh, the CLOSET isn't at an angle, I swear! Just the picture and some of the shelves. The unit is functional but it's only a tiny bit better than something Homer Simpson would build. You can likely tell that some of the shelves are wonky -- one slightly tilted up, another slightly tilted down. I just could not get the right angles perfect.
My electrician suggested that I use a speed square, and of course I have some (different sizes) but haven't used them for building shelves like these. I googled but the responses weren't applicable to the kind of shelving I'm making. At SOME point I'd like to fix these (and paint them and paint the closet too!) but for now I'd just like to understand how to use a speed square for shelving like this, as there is a plate rack that I bought the parts for but STILL haven't made because I'm afraid of screwing it up.
HELP, PLEASE!
A "speed square" is simply a triangle-type device usually made out of metal or plastic that has one 90* angle and two 45* angles.
Using it is pretty simple. Simply place the boards such that they are flush with the sides of the triangle that contain the 90* angle, and VOILA, you've got a 90* angle.
Actually, for your shelving, you wouldn't even need that speed square. Simply erect the two straight vertical boards such that they are the same distance apart from top to bottom. Then measure up from the bottom on each board the desired distance between the centers of each shelf (for example 12") and mark each vertical board accordingly.
Then install the shelves exactly on the mark on each vertical board and you've got it done!
A "speed square" is simply a triangle-type device usually made out of metal or plastic that has one 90* angle and two 45* angles.
Using it is pretty simple. Simply place the boards such that they are flush with the sides of the triangle that contain the 90* angle, and VOILA, you've got a 90* angle.
Actually, for your shelving, you wouldn't even need that speed square. Simply erect the two straight vertical boards such that they are the same distance apart from top to bottom. Then measure up from the bottom on each board the desired distance between the centers of each shelf (for example 12") and mark each vertical board accordingly.
Then install the shelves exactly on the mark on each vertical board and you've got it done!
.
This. I have a square with an incorporated spirit level. If I don't "believe" my eyes, the level, or the square for some reason, one of the other mechanisms usually convinces me the angles actually are right .
Actually, for your shelving, you wouldn't even need that speed square. Simply erect the two straight vertical boards such that they are the same distance apart from top to bottom. Then measure up from the bottom on each board the desired distance between the centers of each shelf (for example 12") and mark each vertical board accordingly.
.
I would just measure the diagonals. If they are the same, the box is square.
Another thing to do is to line the two sides up side by side and mark them together rather than measuring/marking each one separately. For example you can lay them on top of each other and drill down right through both of them so that your shelf pins holes are in the exact same spot. (Then use hole plugs to fill the holes on the outside, once assembled).
But also make sure you are working on a level floor. If the floor is not level, use shims or glides to adjust, otherwise no amount of squaring or measuring is going to result in level shelves. And make sure your boards are straight too--check them out at the store before buying. That second shelf (below the red box) looks like it's warped.
Usually one or two projects will stop a person from using whitewood boards for furniture or much else. It warps, it may not be quarter sawn, it usually has knots, it is pricey for what it is, and it is weak. If a shelf is cupped or distorted, no speed square is going to solve that. Furniture is made from hardwoods and veneered plywood for a reason.
I learned early on in shop class. We were given a section of 12" whitewood board and instructions on how to make a bird feeder. When we had our projects finished, someone looked at the worst one and said "Hmmpf... The birds will take one look at that and go cheep cheep cheep!"
Later, I learned about cuts and glue-ups to salvage a cupped board, but even the best of the feeders in that class looked warped and bad, because the material was crap.
I would "deconstruct" that, get prefinished shelving sides with the holes for adjustable shelving and be done. If I wanted to make something custom, ripping a sheet of decent plywood and using a trim piece at the cut edges would be something I would consider.
If your overall frame or box is square (or close enough) generally I would install cleats on three sides, and then attach the shelf to the cleats. Generally you can pull a warped board straight by doing that.
Also by installing cleats you check side to side and rear front corners for level.
Thank you so much for all the replies! Responses below ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chas863
A "speed square" is simply a triangle-type device usually made out of metal or plastic that has one 90* angle and two 45* angles.
Using it is pretty simple. Simply place the boards such that they are flush with the sides of the triangle that contain the 90* angle, and VOILA, you've got a 90* angle.
That's how I often check things for right angles -- but I think to then ATTACH the boards to each other, they have to be clamped. I thought marking them with pencils would be enough, but it didn't work great.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chas863
Actually, for your shelving, you wouldn't even need that speed square. Simply erect the two straight vertical boards such that they are the same distance apart from top to bottom. Then measure up from the bottom on each board the desired distance between the centers of each shelf (for example 12") and mark each vertical board accordingly.
Then install the shelves exactly on the mark on each vertical board and you've got it done!
I hate to admit it ... but that's what I did. The problem is that the boards or the screw moved slightly when I was attaching the pieces, so they ended up NOT perfectly in line on both sides. Hence, the need for clamps ... which I have, but need more of!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parnassia
This. I have a square with an incorporated spirit level. If I don't "believe" my eyes, the level, or the square for some reason, one of the other mechanisms usually convinces me the angles actually are right .
What's a spirit level? I've never even heard that term so would like to learn something new!
Quote:
Originally Posted by don6170
I would just measure the diagonals. If they are the same, the box is square.
The actual structure is actually fine -- i.e., the 2 vertical side pieces plus their top. It's the internal SHELVES that I couldn't get right, either when I screwed them in or when I drilled holes for shelf pins. Something always moved JUST slightly, just enough to make them not perfectly straight from side to side.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarianRavenwood
A speed square or a right angle will help.
Another thing to do is to line the two sides up side by side and mark them together rather than measuring/marking each one separately. For example you can lay them on top of each other and drill down right through both of them so that your shelf pins holes are in the exact same spot. (Then use hole plugs to fill the holes on the outside, once assembled).
That ^^^ is a GREAT tip and I feel like a dope for not thinking of that myself! I would just need to buy 1/4" plugs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarianRavenwood
But also make sure you are working on a level floor. If the floor is not level, use shims or glides to adjust, otherwise no amount of squaring or measuring is going to result in level shelves. And make sure your boards are straight too--check them out at the store before buying. That second shelf (below the red box) looks like it's warped.
Yep, one of the shelves IS warped. I will likely stick that at the bottom after I fix the shelf holes -- for my purposes it will still work fine (it will have one of those fabric baskets on it), it will just look, well, Homer-Simpson-ish.
Quote:
Originally Posted by harry chickpea
Usually one or two projects will stop a person from using whitewood boards for furniture or much else. It warps, it may not be quarter sawn, it usually has knots, it is pricey for what it is, and it is weak. If a shelf is cupped or distorted, no speed square is going to solve that. Furniture is made from hardwoods and veneered plywood for a reason.
I learned early on in shop class. We were given a section of 12" whitewood board and instructions on how to make a bird feeder. When we had our projects finished, someone looked at the worst one and said "Hmmpf... The birds will take one look at that and go cheep cheep cheep!"
Later, I learned about cuts and glue-ups to salvage a cupped board, but even the best of the feeders in that class looked warped and bad, because the material was crap.
I would "deconstruct" that, get prefinished shelving sides with the holes for adjustable shelving and be done. If I wanted to make something custom, ripping a sheet of decent plywood and using a trim piece at the cut edges would be something I would consider.
Harry, I wrote above (in answer to another poster) that the sides are actually fine -- they are 99% straight. Some of the shelves are warped, but what was more problematic to me was that I couldn't get them on level across.
BUT you just reminded me that I have at least a dozen shelves that I kept to use as stand-alone shelves even after their bookcases were too crappy to use -- those shelves are just sitting in my garage! D'OH! I could have easily used some of those for the sides. I have a shelf pin j i g (just got censored so I added spaces!) so drilling the holes is pretty easy -- if I use 2 pieces of definitely-flat boards, I could easily get all the holes level by using that j i g.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threerun
If your overall frame or box is square (or close enough) generally I would install cleats on three sides, and then attach the shelf to the cleats. Generally you can pull a warped board straight by doing that.
Also by installing cleats you check side to side and rear front corners for level.
Another D'OH moment! I've used cleats for other shelving but it didn't even occur to me to use them for this. That likely would have worked IF I could get all the measurements right to make them level. I will keep this in mind for future projects -- thanks!
On a level...
That little glass vial with the bubble inside.
Next, everyone will want to be knowing who Plumb Bob Squarepants is.
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Just the picture and some of the shelves. The unit is functional but it's only a tiny bit better than something Homer Simpson would build. 
You can likely tell that some of the shelves are wonky -- one slightly tilted up, another slightly tilted down. I just could not get the right angles perfect.
.
I could have easily used some of those for the sides. I have a shelf pin j i g (just got censored so I added spaces!) so drilling the holes is pretty easy -- if I use 2 pieces of definitely-flat boards, I could easily get all the holes level by using that j i g.
