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I saw some suggestions ont he internet, but most of them recocomend using that shirnk wrap stuff. We used it once but it did nto even last the whole season. I plan to use lexan. I think it will hold up better, and probably insulate better.
I was thinking about just building some simple wood frames. However I am not sure how to hold them together. Screws and glue is prbably not going to be strong enough. Also I have no idea how to hold them in place. I do nto want ot screw them into the frames, but I would not mind installing some sort of mounting harware that stays in place. Does anyone have any tips> Any ideas that worked really well? Any tips for cutting lexan?
I already looked into those windows made by innerglass, but at about $300 each, 20 windows is cost prohibitive.
Also I have no idea how to hold them in place. I do nto want ot screw them into the frames, but I would not mind installing some sort of mounting harware that stays in place. Does anyone have any tips> Any ideas that worked really well?
Our 80-year old interior storms are all glass and some of the larger ones weigh quite a bit. They are held in place by these little detent "bullet" catches:
Each storm has a small wooden knob so the frame can be removed easily. Another cool thing the original builder did was to number each window. The windows and storms (and the screens) all have (or had) matching brass number plates.
If you are trying to save $$$ you probably won't want to go with brass , but the idea of numbering each window and storm will save time and frustration when you go to mount them again in a year. Especially, if your windows (like ours) all vary ever-so-slightly in size.
Attach velcro to the frame and storm frame. You can get dots of velcro and put one on each corner of the window. It will preserve the window frame from damage and allow secire fit and hold of the storm frame.
We have used the shrink wrap stuff many times and have never had issues. What do you mean it didn't last an entire season?
Tape came off, plastic got holes in it. If something brushes or falls agaisnt it, it tears, then you have to start over. Between kids, cat, guests, bird, etc. They end up getting bumped, brushed poked or who knows what. I do not want something that I have to re-do every year. On the other hand I cannot spend thousands. I like those innerglass windows, but at $300 each they are cost prohibitive. I counted, we actually have 26 windows that we must do and another twelve that we should but do not really have to do.
I looked into Lucite - way too expensive. I think that I can get acrylic at Home Depot, but I do not know what it costs. PLexiglass will not work, it turns yellow. Does anyone know whether 1/8" sheets of acrylic are practical for this use?
I will try those bullet fasteners. If I use velcro, how do I get an airtight seal? The primary purpose of storm windows is to prevent air penetration. The pocket of air trapped between the window and the storm provides the insulation. I intend to put foam weather stripping along the frames in order to get a good seal. I am not sure how I could use velcro to hold them in place.
Thank you everyone for the suggestions. I am dreading this project. I cannot imagine how long it will take to build 26 frames. It will not be fun since there is no possibility that anyone will be willing to help me. I can order some kid help for a while, but it is hardly worth the effort for a project like this, They are expert at finding ways out fo this type of work. I also expect that the acrylic (if that ends up being practical) will be fairly costly. However, we have to do something. Even with the temporary caulk sealing the window joints, we always get some leaking. Exterior storms work pretty well, but they keep breaking and they are really hard to put up and to store (which is when they usually break). The upstairs ones are especially hard to install on the outside. Plus they look awful.
These are similar to the innerglass windows except they attach with magnets instead of compression. If they cost the sameas innerglass windows, I cannot afford them ($250 - $300 x 26 = a whole lot) and I would prefer innerglass if the price is the same or learly the same. I do not want to mess up the historic look of our house by installing metal frams around the windows. I am nto sure whether these will work for windows that are not perfectly square (that is the big advantage of the innerglass system).
However, if they are significantly cheaper than innerglass windows I will look at them more closely to see how obvious the metal frames are and whether they can work in windows that may be slightly out of square.
The nice thing is that they explain that acrylic is suitable for this use and avialable at hardware stores. That is helpful for building my own.
Building the frames and attaching the acrylic is simple (but time consuming). It is how to attach the frames to the window and get a good seal without messing up the window that is the question.
Thanks for the link. I will keep trying to get a price from them. If they are cheap, it may be more practical to buy these than to build my own.
My neighbor mentioned how they had some guy make them inside storm windows out of Lexan a few years back. He swears by them. I have no idea how they mounted them to the windows, but he did say it helped tremendously in the Winter time.
We have 4 floor to ceiling 18 light windows in our livingroom, brrrr, and I've been considering doing this as well.
I'd love to hear how it works out. Maybe I'll finally get off my butt and get it done too.
My neighbor mentioned how they had some guy make them inside storm windows out of Lexan a few years back. He swears by them. I have no idea how they mounted them to the windows, but he did say it helped tremendously in the Winter time.
We have 4 floor to ceiling 18 light windows in our livingroom, brrrr, and I've been considering doing this as well.
I'd love to hear how it works out. Maybe I'll finally get off my butt and get it done too.
I looked into lexan. It is crazy expensive. I intend to use acrylic. I have not gotten prices for that yet. i will let you know what works.
Your frame construction will partially depend on what type of material you choose for the "glazing" and how thick you want your frames to be.
Lexan and acrylic each cut quite nicely with a plywood blade in a table saw.
If you go with solid acrylic, you could simply use 3/4 stock and use a double frame with the acrylic sandwiched between. This will work reasonably well if you rout a pocket on the interior edge of each piece and then vary the rail and style lengths so that each corner joint overlaps.
If you wish to use single thickness frames, then use your router or table saw to form a half-lap joint for each corner -- add a flat 90-degree mending bracket for strength if you wish.
Regardless of your installation and retaining method, you're unlikely to get an air-proof seal. Instead, use some basic weather stripping and then caulk the seams with a clear, removable draft-stop, type of caulking.
Not sure on pricing, but you might consider using clear vinyl sheeting like that used for boat tops.
There is no cheap and easy way of weather-proofing old, single windows. The best long-term solution is often to bite the bullet and replace a few each year with modern, insulated glass models.
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, but the idea of numbering each window and storm will save time and frustration when you go to mount them again in a year. Especially, if your windows (like ours) all vary ever-so-slightly in size. 
