What are the differences between AR-16 or AK-47? (rifle, 308, AR15)
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Sorry, OP - some folks are too busy trying to show how "smart" they are....
Are you referring to civilian or military type AR's and AK's?
If civilian, then the AR platform is very easily adaptable to various calibers by the owner - not so the AK. Pretty much, the caliber you buy an AK in is the caliber it's gonna stay. With an AR, there's SO much you can do to it, it's not funny - different triggers, sight systems, even calibers.
I own several AK's in 5.56 just to avoid having another ammo caliber to stock, along with several AR's, all of which I built myself.
Sorry, OP - some folks are too busy trying to show how "smart" they are....
Are you referring to civilian or military type AR's and AK's?
If civilian, then the AR platform is very easily adaptable to various calibers by the owner - not so the AK. Pretty much, the caliber you buy an AK in is the caliber it's gonna stay. With an AR, there's SO much you can do to it, it's not funny - different triggers, sight systems, even calibers.
I own several AK's in 5.56 just to avoid having another ammo caliber to stock, along with several AR's, all of which I built myself.
1) The AR/M models. ARs are, or used to be, mainly a direct impingement (gas is directed by gas port and tube directly back onto the forward face of the bolt thereby forcing it to cycle and thus recharge/reload the chamber with a fresh round, which has also been, up until recently, the 5.56mm NTO round (.223). Now it's available in several other, probably ballistically better, cartridges. 6.5 Grendell (++) or the 6.8 SPC (+++), or even a .458 Socom. The military cartridge's range is only about 350+ m realistically. Beyond that it runs out of steam.
This direct impingement causes fast heat-up and sooting-up of the receiver, plus the delivery of spent propellant residues directly into the receiver/chamber area, causing premature soot jams, which was seem often in the 'Nam battlefield, so that the troops really wanted their old-tech M14 back. Oooppss: rushed into production to meet the Colt lobbyists. Heck, it only cost the US military some people's children, huh?
Btw, now you can purchase an aftermarket solid op-rod system, but that will add about $350 to the cost. Also adds about 1 lb.
It's still a nice light rifle however ( about 7 lb) , and v. easily tuned up with aftermarket parts, the armament equivalent of a v. tunable small-block Chevy motor! V. adaptable and easily improved, and inherently accurate (rigid receiver, well-located barrel. A full-on accuracy build will produce an auto-loading "varmint" rifle, easily capable of sub 0.5" 10 shot groups.
2) The AK? An extremely reliable & rugged platform designed to v. loose specs so that it would (and indeed did, right from it's get-go!) endure real battle field conditions. Mud, snow,sand, rain, wear and tear, soot buildup? No firearms jamming. It is also a solid piston and rod actuator system that keeps the heat up front where it belongs.
On the other hand, it's also inherently inaccurate (typically, 2.5" groups @ 100 m, or worse) unless modified up, but not with very many off-the-shelf aftermarket parts in most cases. Trigger? Tough luck. Sight radius (iron sights)? Too short. The sheet-steel receiver is a stamped steel part in most cases, riveted together so it can actually be field repaired with some rivets and a hammer in some local ironmonger's blacksmith shop. (Note: some models do have a much heavier machined alloy receiver, like the Israeli Galil models, which end up weighing about 10lb!)
Available in the venerable and effective 7.6 X 39 (≈ 300 meters), but also now, as the AK74 (s AK47) in the newer, 5.56 like 5.45 X uhmmm 45 I think? (also about 300 to 350 m).
If you want an ultra-reliable bug-out rifle, get a good and established version of an Eastern bloc AK, like a Polish model. Definitely not a Chinese model however. Bad QC!
If you want tack-driver that nonetheless might cause you some in-use op problems in a save-your-own hide rifle, go for an aftermarket upgraded AR, possibly in 6.5G or 6.8SPC.
1) The AR/M models. ARs are, or used to be, mainly a direct impingement (gas is directed by gas port and tube directly back onto the forward face of the bolt thereby forcing it to cycle and thus recharge/reload the chamber with a fresh round, which has also been, up until recently, the 5.56mm NTO round (.223). Now it's available in several other, probably ballistically better, cartridges. 6.5 Grendell (++) or the 6.8 SPC (+++), or even a .458 Socom. The military cartridge's range is only about 350+ m realistically. Beyond that it runs out of steam.
This direct impingement causes fast heat-up and sooting-up of the receiver, plus the delivery of spent propellant residues directly into the receiver/chamber area, causing premature soot jams, which was seem often in the 'Nam battlefield, so that the troops really wanted their old-tech M14 back. Oooppss: rushed into production to meet the Colt lobbyists. Heck, it only cost the US military some people's children, huh?
Btw, now you can purchase an aftermarket solid op-rod system, but that will add about $350 to the cost. Also adds about 1 lb.
It's still a nice light rifle however ( about 7 lb) , and v. easily tuned up with aftermarket parts, the armament equivalent of a v. tunable small-block Chevy motor! V. adaptable and easily improved, and inherently accurate (rigid receiver, well-located barrel. A full-on accuracy build will produce an auto-loading "varmint" rifle, easily capable of sub 0.5" 10 shot groups.
2) The AK? An extremely reliable & rugged platform designed to v. loose specs so that it would (and indeed did, right from it's get-go!) endure real battle field conditions. Mud, snow,sand, rain, wear and tear, soot buildup? No firearms jamming. It is also a solid piston and rod actuator system that keeps the heat up front where it belongs.
On the other hand, it's also inherently inaccurate (typically, 2.5" groups @ 100 m, or worse) unless modified up, but not with very many off-the-shelf aftermarket parts in most cases. Trigger? Tough luck. Sight radius (iron sights)? Too short. The sheet-steel receiver is a stamped steel part in most cases, riveted together so it can actually be field repaired with some rivets and a hammer in some local ironmonger's blacksmith shop. (Note: some models do have a much heavier machined alloy receiver, like the Israeli Galil models, which end up weighing about 10lb!)
Available in the venerable and effective 7.6 X 39 (≈ 300 meters), but also now, as the AK74 (s AK47) in the newer, 5.56 like 5.45 X uhmmm 45 I think? (also about 300 to 350 m).
If you want an ultra-reliable bug-out rifle, get a good and established version of an Eastern bloc AK, like a Polish model. Definitely not a Chinese model however. Bad QC!
If you want tack-driver that nonetheless might cause you some in-use op problems in a save-your-own hide rifle, go for an aftermarket upgraded AR, possibly in 6.5G or 6.8SPC.
Any other questions I might be able to answer?
Without starting the normal long running ar vs. ak argument, My Norinco milled receiver AKS in .223 is every bit as dependable and accurate as my AR's just saying.
Here is the answer that will not make your eyes glaze over:
AK is known for extreme reliability and durability. The AR is known for (typically) better accuracy, and for better ergos. There are many versions and variations of both. In the end there is as much variation within the two types as there is between them.
Also, if you compare shooter A using an AK, and shooter B using an AR, the biggest difference is going to be a function of who is the better shooter, not who has the better rifle.
Without starting the normal long running ar vs. ak argument, My Norinco milled receiver AKS in .223 is every bit as dependable and accurate as my AR's just saying.
Yup. Many many different technical variations, with as much variation within rifles as within the type of rifle. I don't think we were discussing the capabilities of specific shooters.
(I once won a cross-Canada military competition back in 1969 or so as I barely recall, for long distance marksmanship: I put 10 rounds of .303 match grade ammo into 46". Oh wowsy, huh? Big deal!
But it was @ 1000m and with iron sights and again, .303 ammo in a barely tidied-up Mk4 L-E. Nowadays, I would not be able to do that @ 500 yds! We getz older and less stable. So let's keep it to a fairly standardized commentary on the AR vs AK, n'Kay?)
For sure, the general build quality is not the same between the two, and the AR, if we could honestly compare typical as-issued to field personnel rifles, the AR is superior in general quality and diensional consistency, plus in it's modular design, than the very reliable AK. And any reasonable tester will confirm that an as-issued AK is NOT as accurate as a basic grunt-issued AR.
As well, recoil is not managed as well because of the AK's inherent design. On the other hand, the AR's recoil is almost negligible.
Then, do take the time to read his longer attached argument and conclusions. Note: there is no short handy answer here, just the basic design and ballistic facts, coupled with individual experiences. Remember his phrase "brand myopic", which is evident in many shooter's comments and conclusions.
Now frankly & personally, i prefer the IMI Galil .223 Sporter, though it is waaayyyy heavy. Much more accurate (in general of course...) than the AK, almost up to AR standards. Also a significantly longer sight radius. It's also easier to compare as well, if you, like I, own one in .223. Accuracy in about ≈1.0 " @ 100 m, while a comparable standard battle AK rifle will only produce, typically, 2.0" at best!
Meantime, A standard AR will produce 1.7" typically. Of course, if you purchase Rock River Arms basic rifle, or other higher end rifle, those will generally produce better accuracy. Ditto for the many versions and manufacturers of AK. Remember now, we're comparing rifles, not sight system mods, etc. Just the factory iron sights (for real good iron sights, check out those on anymodern H&K battle rifle, in either .308 or .223)
Other factors are easily found in comparo-video articles on YouTube, will show that take-down and cleaning is usually easier on the modular AK.
Well, I have nothing further to comment on. Just my own personal two bits, 45 years of shooting military rifles, and in my business as a professional gunsmith.
Most AR malfunctions are operator-induced, in my experience.
Taking nothing away from the AK, though - it's proven to be a pretty reliable platform over the years. As with anything else, we'll each have our preferences.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Differences.
