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My original post invites another topic that Hemlock140 mentions...ethanol laced gasoline and it's effects on engines with rubber components. Just as vehicles starting in the mid 70's were able to consume unleaded gas w/o valve area issues...is there a general production date from which cars/trucks were built to handle ethanol laced gas w/o damage to parts like flexible tubing etc..?
Around 2011 was when all cars were made to work with E10 but it was way back in 1996 that some manufacturers offered vehicles that could run on E85.
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
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Originally Posted by robr2
Around 2011 was when all cars were made to work with E10 but it was way back in 1996 that some manufacturers offered vehicles that could run on E85.
Anything after 2010 is safe for sure, between 2000-2009 it depends on the car, and as above, a few are OK back as far as 1996. You really have to research the car. When I rebuilt the carburetor in my Nova I used modern parts that can handle it but the fuel pump and rubber line are still vulnerable.
Well, "lead" which strictly speaking is tetraethyl lead, is added to gasoline PRIMARILY as an anti-detonation/anti-pre-ignition measure; but metallic lead and lead compounds will precipitate out and provide a measure of "cushioning" at the exhaust valve seats. Recession of exhaust valve seats is a phenomenon seen with cast iron cylinder heads that don't have insert valve seats, which at this point is going to be pre-1975 cars that haven't had cylinder head work yet. If you have an older car with poor knocking control (weak function of distributor advance/retard) and high compression, the prevention of knock is of a higher priority than valve seat recession, as it takes a long time for valve seat recession but the little holes in the tops of the pistons can occur after one long steep hill in hot weather.
I believe it's been standard practice for 40+ years now to install stellite valve seats in cast iron heads when rebuilding, especially in high compression engines of the 60s. Owners of those high compression engines generally have to search out "octane boosters" or forgo some compression ratio (flat top pistons in an engine that had domed pistons, or thick head gaskets) to prevent detonation which is more damaging than using unleaded without stellite seats.
I doubt the compression ratios in elderly tractors are high enough to cause any issue.
My 1974 Nova was made with the updated valves for unleaded gas. I do use ethanol-free has in it, though, because the rubber parts are not made for alcohol. On my previous classics, a 1963 Ranchero and a 1972 El Camino I used a lead substitute additive to prevent the premature wear caused by lack of lead.
its not just the rubber, the 'white metals' in your average carb do not react well to the water that ethanol brings in the gas. In fact thats worse.
As for booze gas, I drove multiple vintage Mustangs daily in the early 2000s and no bad results. But, at around 200 miles on a tank, the fuel almost never had a chance to accumulate much water. I had more trouble with ignition control modules burning out on the electronic ignition conversions than I did with unleaded fuel or water intrusion with the fuel. If you don’t drive it much, dump a bottle of heet and sta-bil in each tank and you’ll be fine.
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcp123
Hardened valve seats are your friend.
As for booze gas, I drove multiple vintage Mustangs daily in the early 2000s and no bad results. But, at around 200 miles on a tank, the fuel almost never had a chance to accumulate much water. I had more trouble with ignition control modules burning out on the electronic ignition conversions than I did with unleaded fuel or water intrusion with the fuel. If you don’t drive it much, dump a bottle of heet and sta-bil in each tank and you’ll be fine.
I always put a bottle of Sta-Bil in the Nova when I fill up. I only drive it 1-2 times a week in summer and early fall, only on a rare dry day the rest of the year. I also keep a trickle charger on it.
Yet another follow up to my 2 inquiries within this post: I just have bought a clean low mile 96' Dodge 1500 4x4, /5.2-"318" from a retiree. From the dates given on safe usage of ethanol laced gas...should I be searching out ONLY ethanol free gas for it? And about ethanol/non-ethanol gas, is it true that if storing gas for longer than a few months...non ethanol w/a gas stabilizer, "could" give about a 2 year window of use, if stored properly?...Thanks for any info..
How often do you expect to drive it? If it is going to be sitting around a lot you want ethanol free gas for sure. Whether or not you need a stabilizer depends on how long it takes to burn through a tank of gas.
My pickup might sit in the driveway three weeks straight. But when I do fire it up I put several hundred miles on it and then fill it up, so the fuel is never more than a month or two old even though it spends most of it's time just sitting there.
How often do you expect to drive it? If it is going to be sitting around a lot you want ethanol free gas for sure. Whether or not you need a stabilizer depends on how long it takes to burn through a tank of gas.
My pickup might sit in the driveway three weeks straight. But when I do fire it up I put several hundred miles on it and then fill it up, so the fuel is never more than a month or two old even though it spends most of it's time just sitting there.
Usage is minimal...sounds like non-ethanol should be a change in what I put into that 96' truck...not as convienent to find..but doable. Still looking for input about what I have heard...non-ethanol w/gas stabilizer is the best bet for fuel that will be in storage more than a few months.
Usage is minimal...sounds like non-ethanol should be a change in what I put into that 96' truck...not as convienent to find..but doable. Still looking for input about what I have heard...non-ethanol w/gas stabilizer is the best bet for fuel that will be in storage more than a few months.
I agree about non-ethanol fuel with fuel stabilizer. In my area, the only non-ethanol fuel available is 90 octane recreational fuel. Popular for use with 2 cycle engines, but expensive.
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....usage vs ethanol/non ethanol
