If you’ve done any research at all before your arrival, chances are you’ve heard that Portland has more restaurants per capita than any other city except San Francisco.
There’s just one problem: No one has ever been able to prove it. That little tidbit gets thrown around so much in this town that many people have tried to track down the source and some statistics to back it up. They always come up empty. The fact that such a rumor persists from year to year, however, illustrates Portland’s identity as a restaurant town. This is a city that loves food and loves to dine out.
Portland’s identity is, of course, closely tied to the sea, and it is seafood that most visitors want to focus on when they come here. Lobster in all its forms will always be tops with tourists—succulent steamed lobster with drawn butter, toasted rolls packed with lobster meat and fixings, rich lobster stew, and other various forms of this classic Maine food. And don’t forget the steamers. Top it off with a thick slice of juicy blueberry pie, made with freshly raked blueberries harvested from the barrens in August.
Maine is maple syrup in March, fiddleheads and rhubarb in spring, apple pies at autumn agricultural fairs, and winter chowders chock-full of sweet corn or fresh clams. But it is so much more than that. Portland, especially, has a growing and evolving food scene that has captured the attention of publications such as the New York Times, Gourmet, and Food and Wine. Maine chefs have been nominated for, and won, James Beard “Best Chef: Northeast” awards and have hosted Maine-themed dinners at the James Beard House in New York City. And it’s no wonder—chefs are no more immune to the beauty and quality of life here than anyone else, so Maine attracts some of the best culinary talent from around the country.
The “Slow Food” movement is particularly active in Maine. Slow Food is philosophically the opposite of fast food or over-processed food. It uses fresh, regional ingredients obtained from local farmers and is presented simply, seasonally, and creatively. Many of Portland’s best restaurants boast about their reliance on regional farms and farmers’ markets, artisanal producers, and local fish purveyors in creating their menus.
Wine pairings, caviar tastings, truffle dinners—it seems as if Portland restaurants have special events happening every week. Lots of food-related fund-raisers take place year-round as well, from the Great Chili and Chowder Challenge in February, which benefits a local foster grandparents’ program, to the Chocolate Lovers’ Fling in March, which benefits the Sexual Assault Response Services of Southern Maine. To find out if any of these events are happening while you’re in town, check restaurant Web sites or pick up the “Food and Health” section in the Wednesday edition of the Portland Press Herald.
Portland has many excellent brewpubs that also serve good food. A small selection is included here, and you’ll find more in the Nightlife chapter.
As you explore Portland’s restaurant scene, you’ll soon discover that, whether it can be proved or not, the Portland–San Francisco rumor at least seems to be true. There are so many excellent restaurants to choose from that you can only hope to sample a few during a short visit to the city. In this chapter you’ll find a good selection of restaurants that are among locals’ favorites, but this is by no means a comprehensive list. We have tried to include something in every price range. The listings are organized alphabetically by name. Many of Portland’s restaurants are closed on Sunday (although more are beginning to open their doors), so it’s a good idea to call ahead on weekends.
NOTE: Smoking is not allowed in any of Maine’s restaurants.