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Old 05-06-2024, 12:27 PM
 
832 posts, read 1,733,025 times
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Hello, I’m trying to install a bidet and trying to figure out how to shut off the toilet water. I don’t see the usual oval shaped valve knob that I’ve seen on other toilets. I’ve attached a picture. There is a small circular white knob but it doesn’t seem like it should be turned. Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
Toilet water shut off?-img_5410.jpeg  
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Old 05-06-2024, 01:19 PM
 
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
44,687 posts, read 81,455,155 times
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I once saw something very similar, and it required either pushing or pulling to shut off the water. I think that one was pull=off. Being plastic and old I would not mess with it. You are better off turning the water off at the house valve or meter.
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Old 05-06-2024, 03:37 PM
 
832 posts, read 1,733,025 times
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Thanks! I thought it was a push/pull thing too, but it wouldn’t budge. I don’t think I should try anymore or else it might break
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Old 05-06-2024, 04:03 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,482 posts, read 66,195,776 times
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Yes; it a push/pull shutoff.

That particular version is a "recessed" version.

This should give you the info you need-

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/pull-...utlet-box.html
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Old 05-07-2024, 07:00 AM
 
Location: Sunnybrook Farm
4,607 posts, read 2,740,857 times
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Boy that seems like an over-complification just to have a "cleaner looking" installation. All the actual guts of the valve buried in the wall. Get a leak (yes, rare) and it doesn't just drip on the tile floor, it soaks the drywall. Ever need to replace it (mineral deposits, yes) and you've really got a job. Nope, no, no-niddly-no-no-no. Give me a plain old shutoff sticking out of the wall with the standard compression fitting to the flex hose.
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Old 05-07-2024, 04:14 PM
 
Location: Anchorage
2,093 posts, read 1,695,033 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit33 View Post
Boy that seems like an over-complification just to have a "cleaner looking" installation. All the actual guts of the valve buried in the wall. Get a leak (yes, rare) and it doesn't just drip on the tile floor, it soaks the drywall. Ever need to replace it (mineral deposits, yes) and you've really got a job. Nope, no, no-niddly-no-no-no. Give me a plain old shutoff sticking out of the wall with the standard compression fitting to the flex hose.

We have an older house on well water and nearly every shut-off valve leaks from the stem after I turn the water back on. I usually end up replacing them with a 1/4 turn ball valve. I replace the hose while I'm at it since they don't last forever. The design in the OP's photo looks terrible to me regarding long-term maintenance.
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Old Yesterday, 04:08 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
17,227 posts, read 57,166,366 times
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In my experience, cycling these shut off valves (I have the regular ones you see at any hardware store) at least about once per year keeps them in decent shape. A little spritz of Kroil penetrating oil does not hurt anything. Normal valves like this, if it leaks from the stem, you can usually tighten the gland nut a bit and the leak will stop. Most such valves will stop leaking if you open the valve fully, actuating the "back seat" of the stem into the gland. You ideally would use a tubing wrench on the gland nut, or even those specific Vise Grip wrenches (not ordinary Vise Grip), next choice would be an open end wrench, last acceptable choice is an adjustable (Crescent) wrench IN GOOD CONDITION. Except for some specific pliers that are intended for wrench use (Kipex, I think) do not use any sort of pliers on that gland nut.

You need a working toilet shutoff anyway so if you manage to clog the toilet and then flush it, it does not run over all over your floor.

I have never seen one of these "push" shutoffs and I do think it's one of the stupidest contraptions I have ever seen. Prone to getting stuck if you have hard water, if it leaks it will leak inside the wall rather than on the bathroom floor. But maybe it's an HGTV darling, at least it's not "dated"!
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Old Today, 11:53 AM
 
Location: Anchorage
2,093 posts, read 1,695,033 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch View Post
In my experience, cycling these shut off valves (I have the regular ones you see at any hardware store) at least about once per year keeps them in decent shape. A little spritz of Kroil penetrating oil does not hurt anything. Normal valves like this, if it leaks from the stem, you can usually tighten the gland nut a bit and the leak will stop. Most such valves will stop leaking if you open the valve fully, actuating the "back seat" of the stem into the gland. You ideally would use a tubing wrench on the gland nut, or even those specific Vise Grip wrenches (not ordinary Vise Grip), next choice would be an open end wrench, last acceptable choice is an adjustable (Crescent) wrench IN GOOD CONDITION. Except for some specific pliers that are intended for wrench use (Kipex, I think) do not use any sort of pliers on that gland nut.

You need a working toilet shutoff anyway so if you manage to clog the toilet and then flush it, it does not run over all over your floor.

I have never seen one of these "push" shutoffs and I do think it's one of the stupidest contraptions I have ever seen. Prone to getting stuck if you have hard water, if it leaks it will leak inside the wall rather than on the bathroom floor. But maybe it's an HGTV darling, at least it's not "dated"!

Oh, I can fix a leaking valve. I've replaced seals and repacked valve stems numerous times. But 1/4 turn ball valves just last way longer without issues and it isn't much more work to simply replace the valve than to keep fiddling with the old one.


Sounds like we both agree that a valve recessed into the wall is just stupid.
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