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Old 02-07-2024, 07:54 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChessieMom View Post
I used to have wood windows (finally replaced them 2 years ago!) and would have to occasionally replace a sash. My frames were a light "oakish" color, so I stained with a "natural" color stain, which was a great match. I added two coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane, sanding in between coats. It's great stuff.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Helm...nish/999914253
Thanks. Do you remember, which particular stain did you use?
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Old 02-07-2024, 08:28 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maple47 View Post
Thanks. Do you remember, which particular stain did you use?
Minwax. The color is "natural".
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Old 02-07-2024, 09:17 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChessieMom View Post
Minwax. The color is "natural".
Was it oil based, or water based?
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Old 02-07-2024, 10:04 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maple47 View Post
Was it oil based, or water based?
I always used oil-based.
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Old 02-09-2024, 08:52 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChessieMom View Post
I always used oil-based.
I found this item at Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Wood...l-oz/999914193.
Is that what you used for windows?
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Old 02-09-2024, 09:12 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maple47 View Post
I found this item at Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Wood...l-oz/999914193.
Is that what you used for windows?
Actually I just checked the can (surprised I still have it!) and the color is "Puritan Pine".
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Old 02-09-2024, 09:34 AM
 
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Out of stock. They have "Ipswich Pine" instead.
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Old 02-09-2024, 09:51 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maple47 View Post
Out of stock. They have "Ipswich Pine" instead.
I checked the Minwax site apparently the Purtitan Pine is no longer made. I expect the Ipswich Pine is just the new name. It looks about the same. Honestly just pick the color that you like the best. On oak wood, you really might want to go with the "Natural" color.

Here are the current colors:

https://www.minwax.com/en/wood-stain...e-color-stains
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Old 02-11-2024, 02:45 PM
 
Location: Minnesota
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I would use a water based poly for the sealer/clear protective coat. Easier to use and clean up. As I have learned when putting on a clear coat after painting some furniture oil based clear coats will yellow, water based ones do not.

You can put a water based poly clear coat over oil stains. You should just wait until the stain is totally dry. I've read a few days but I wait a week just to be safe. You can use water based stains but they are not as penetrating nor have as good a color as water based, in my opinion anyway. The water based poly is very thin. I like to wipe it on with a clean lint free cloth, cotton knit from old tshirts work well. Then a extremely light sanding between coats, or only after the first coat, maybe 3 coats because it's very thin. For a cheap material to sand with you can use brown paper grocery bags as an abrasive. Just cut small squares to use to sand. I put about 6 (maybe more) coats of poly on the top of a table that was going to get heavy use for my son's apartment and it seemed to be enough.
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Old 03-17-2024, 09:48 AM
 
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The latest achievements are as follows. It is just an experiment board.
I used an old pine board (10 years old or so) to stain the strips of 5 min, 10 min, 15 min.
Then I added a second stain on some parts of the strips, so I have 5+5 min, 10+5 min, 15+5 min.
I used Minwax Ipswich Pine oil based stain, looks good.
For the sashes I will use the time strip somewhat lighter, than the surrounding oak frame, because the pine will get darker later.
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