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For installing Hardie board exterior siding, I’m wondering if my crew is doing it correctly or not. As they install each lateral plank, from the bottom and working their way up, they align each plank correctly (I believe) and then they attach each plank to the studs with nails along the upper edge of the plank. The lower edge of the plank rests against the upper edge of the plank beneath it.
The problem I see is that the lower edge of some planks do not rest on the upper edge of the plank beneath it, but instead that lower edge is hanging “free”. I can push against that plank just like it’s a door knocker.
I have two short videos displaying the problem, each less than 9 seconds.
Not all planks are like this. Many are solidly installed and do not move. To my inexperienced eye this does not seem correct. Is this wrong? What is the crew doing wrong?
I’m worried that over time these free planks will work themselves loose and then on windy days my house will clatter like loud castanets.
Last edited by echo7tango; 08-30-2023 at 10:01 PM..
I am seriously interested in KB's evaluation. My initial thought is that there might be warping on the sheathing causing this. If I was certain the sheathing and wrap had been installed correctly, I personally wouldn't be overly concerned. BUT... KB is more knowledgeable, and I just have it as a siding of choice.
Those sections just aren't long enough for the plank's rigidity to hold them down. But, I haven't heard of clattering in the wind.
On short pieces like those, I would probably face nail the bottom corners with finish nails, as Hardieplank instructions allow.
Of course, the ends will be caulked, right? Proper caulking will also help hold them in place, but pin backs will be tighter, longer.
I am seriously interested in KB's evaluation. My initial thought is that there might be warping on the sheathing causing this. If I was certain the sheathing and wrap had been installed correctly, I personally wouldn't be overly concerned. BUT... KB is more knowledgeable, and I just have it as a siding of choice.
I’ll start my response with this-
Is the contractor a James Hardie certified installer? If not, there will be warranty issues.
There are several different scenarios that could be at play here in the OP’s question. Not knowing what the structure is, how it was built, materials used, how old it is, can all be contributing factors to what may seem to be an “easy fix”.
I’ll assume this is a dwelling in the SFB area-
Hardie has always dabbled with their recommendations when wind is involved. Which basically boils down to the difference of “face-nailing” vs. “blind-nailing”. I know there are certain parts of SF that can get pretty windy (Nob Hill). Here’s JH’s amendment dealing with winds-
Now, with that said, I refer back to my leading question- is the installer certified by JH? If so, they should be familiarized with what is acceptable for the area and/or the AHJ. I bring up the AHJ (Authorities Having Jurisdiction) because their codes may, or maynot, supersede the manufacturer’s specifications. This is generally NOT the case- the IRC (International Residential Code) will almost always defer to “manufacturer’s installation guidelines”… but in Cali, you just never know!
To the actual “problem” at-hand.
My first initial thought was improper nailing (I’ll assume the contractor is using pneumatic nailers), the pressure was incorrect. If I assume the pressure was correct, then the nail may have missed the framing member- or split out. Or, the framing member/sheathing is soft, rotted, or otherwise unable to hold a nail tightly.
If all of that was not suspect then I would have to assume it’s a framing issue. Uneven (not in the same plane) studs- or warped/bowed. Which will be pronounced, the shorter the span.
Because the siding is being blind-nailed, it bring one particular item to mind- contractors are notorious about forgetting the “starter course”. A small strip at the bottom that will set the first course in the right angle for the following course. This isn’t an issue overall once you get two/three courses run- but it just one of several small details that can make a difference between good, and excellent installations! Another issue is overlap. The manufacturer has a 1-1/4” minimum overlap. Sometimes going with just a bit more can make a huge difference in how tight the overlay can be.
Mike’s link above to JH’s installation guideline is the correct guideline for the SF area. The reference to “pinning back” is a quick fix for planks that have too much movement, and/or are not aligning correctly at butt joints. The main thing about “pinning” is just that- using a “pin” (finish nail) to accomplish the task. This maintains the “nailhead free” appearance when blind-nailing.
Installing JH plank is not just a slap it on the wall and move on. Especially when it comes to any future warranty issues (BTDT). But, that was also before they instituted their certification program. Once that came into place, I would only hire siding and cornice guys that were certified.
And, if you really want it to look it’s best hire a really good painter!
Proper installation is more critical than many contractors realize. My house has some Hardie siding problems that took awhile to find, understand, and address.
I bought this six YO house that passed inspection and looked good. It is on the top of a rise with a long gradual slope out back to a large wet land 25ft lower. I found later that every few years it can be subject to extreme winds 25mph with gusts over 50 mph at the large house exposure.
First indication was the clatter and whistling from the siding sometimes when exposed to the wind. I did my best to add some fasteners and the noise was reduced. Later rain storms with the extreme wind resulted in water at some windows and doors which painters caulked without lasting results.
I finally after 10 years of occasional problems figured out the issue was the rain was driven up the slope and being pushed under the siding (effectively raining down to up) and then running down on the housewrap to accumulate and leak in at window and door beams.
Once I convinced contractors that was the problem the only solutions I was offered was removing and reinstalling the siding at great expense, or caulking.
I spent much time and effort doing caulking with improvement but may need more work for a next major wind storm.
Circling back to this. The GC is certified to install Hardieplank siding. The crew is new so their process is not yet well oiled. They frequently call and FaceTime the GC. Which is fine with me. Whenever you learn to do something new there is always a first job, right? I know this GC quite well and he has high quality standards.
I’ve been working with the crew and the GC, and with the knowledge from reading resources and discussions here they are doing a good job. Fortunately here in the SFBA CA, the weather is good most days in the summer and fall. My house has a lot of angles, which means quite a bit more detail work. They’ll finish the job this week. And then the paint goes on the week after.
Thank you for your inputs on this. Much appreciated.
I also have questions about current HB installation methods. I started a new thread but didn't get much interest.
From what I can see contractors here in NWA are not following all the guidelines. I've watched several houses built around me by different contractors and I can spot it quite easily. I've become an expert in the board and batten.
I forced the builder to reside around the doors and windows because the flashing was wrong. So much is wrong you have to watch the contractors or they will bury you and you will never know.
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