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Area you are describing: Hawaii Kai (Oahu) Weather: Dry (one of the driest on Oahu..cactus' can attest). That's not to say that there isn't rain..its just not as common as other places on the Island. Some people compare it to S. CA living. It isn't as lush as other parts of the Island (Kailua for example). Schools: Some say very good, compared to other public schools on the Island. Disclosure: I don't have children. Commute: A little long, only really 2 ways into "town" and sometimes frustratingly SLOW even though it isn't "long" (10 miles). HOV lane helps. Good luck getting over 40mph...but like all main landers, you'll learn to slow down too =) Food: I don't think the food in Hawaii Kai is all that great. Some like Assiagos, and Kona Brew but I think both are pretty over rated. Roy's is in Hawaii Kai (the original). That said, there are alot of "fast" options on either side of the marina including Greek, Korean, Burgers. Safeway, Foodland & COSTCO are all here. Also a little farmer's market during the week and a little larger one on Saturday. Shopping: Some cute boutiques on the east side of the marina. Other than that, Ross. Air quality: Good. Economy: Same as Honolulu. Not a TON of employment right in Hawaii Kai, but there are some professional offices. Crime: Limited, comparatively speaking. Housing prices: On the expensive side, even for Honolulu. $600K+ Good neighborhoods: "Hawaii Kai" can go as far west as Pu'uikena. Some beautiful properties along Kalanianaole hwy (you'll learn to say that!), including Portlock are very exclusive. Within Hawaii Kai proper Mariner's Cove, Mariners Ridge are great. Not much of Hawaii Kai is "bad". Personally, I don't want to live in Kalama Valley, but only because I feel like its warmer there and less of a breeze...the homes are perfectly nice and actually, slightly more affordable. Culture: Mixed. (like everywhere here). More Haole than some other places. Stuff to Do: Minutes from Haunauma Bay (although after living here awhile, you'll find much better beaches). SCUBA runs regularly out of the marina. Lots of people living on the marina kayak and paddle board right from their backyards. Snorkeling near by. Sandy Beach is great, lots of kids on the weekends and the surf and current can be very strong. Listen to warnings about this beach, but have fun. Makapu'u Lighthouse hike (walk, really) is only minutes away, and its a great way to start or end the day any day. Other: Easy, quiet place to live. Feels like you have lived here forever immediately. Friendly. Very casual. Great place for kids.
Area you are describing: Kailua on Oahu (NOT Kailua-Kona on the Big Island)
Weather: Generally temperate with good tradewinds. It's green and lush in Kailua thanks to the rain which is regular enough to keep things growing but doesn't rain enough to be a nuisance.
Schools: A mix of private schools and public schools.
Private schools - Le Jardin, St. Anthony's, St. John Vianney, Redemption Academy, and a few other small private schools.
Public - Kailua Elementary, Ka'elepulu Elementary, Enchanted Lake Elementary, Kailua High, Kalaheo High.
There's also Lanikai Elementary which is a charter school.
Commute: Commuting from Kailua is generally very good. You have several ways of getting out of the area unlike other parts of the island which are two-way towns.
If you're going to the Leeward/Pearl Harbor side just take the H-3 highway. There's rarely any traffic. It's a quick 30 minutes from Kailua to Pearl Harbor/Salt Lake. The drive is scenic. When it rains you can see so many waterfalls over the Ko'olau Mountains.
If you're going to town you can take the Pali Highway. It took me 35-45 minutes during rush hour to get from Kailua to Downtown Honolulu.
There's also the Likelike Highway which you can take from Kaneohe to get to town.
You can also take the scenic route around Waimanalo and Hawaii Kai if you want another way to get to town. It takes much longer and it's worth it for those times you don't have to go anywhere in a hurry.
Food: There are many restaurants. You can find something to your liking. You can find Mexican, Thai, Italian, Chinese, "American", Korean, Japanese, fast food, plate lunch, etc. There are several bars including a biker bar. There's a mobile Indian restaurant that parks close to the Kailua Post Office. There's a really good NYC style deli (Brent's) near the Kailua Long's store. Thursday evenings from 5 pm to about 7 pm there is a decent Farmers' Market in the covered parking lot of the Kailua Long's store. You can find fresh veggies and fruits, organic items, local honey, sweets, and everything else.
Shopping: There are several large supermarkets - two Safeway stores, one Foodland, one Times, one Don Quijote (a Japanese store). There are two natural health food stores - Down to Earth which sells all sorts of organic and natural food items. It does not sell any meat or chicken though. There is also The Source which is I believe the oldest organic store on Oahu. They sell supplements, fruits, veggies, organic meats and eggs. A Whole Foods Store is scheduled to open in Kailua in 2010 or so.
You can find lots of small mom and pop type stores. There is an organic children's clothing store near the Kailua Long's. There's a Goodwill store and Salvation Army store for bargain hunters. The nearest mall, Windward Mall, is in Kaneohe which is about a 15 minute drive.
Air quality: Fabulous! Can't be better
Economy: Same as Honolulu. There is a hospital (Castle Medical Center), quite a number of small businesses, but you're not going to find too many urban jobs here. This is a suburban beach community.
Crime: Violent crime is not an issue. It's mostly burglery/property theft type crimes. However, Kailua feels safe compared to some other areas. There's a noticeable police presence in the community.
Housing prices: Pricey. $600,000+
It's a very desirable neighborhood and even older homes command high prices.
Good neighborhoods: I don't think there are any "bad" neighborhoods in Kailua. You have to drive the area to get a feel for the place but the neighborhoods all seem ok to me.
Some areas are older than other areas but it doesn't make them "bad" per se. For example, Coconut Grove on Oneawa area doesn't have good sidewalks compared to say Keolu Drive in Enchanted Lakes but the homes in the Keolu Drive area are "newer" compared to those in Coconut Grove.
Culture: Multicultural and diverse. You'll see Asians, Polynesians, White (haole), etc. Lots of churches. There are various organizations you can join like the YMCA, Rotary, Kailua Chamber of Commerce,This is a laidback beach town. It's pretty self-contained. You don't necessarily have to leave the area to find something to do.
Stuff to Do: Swim, surf, windsurf, hike, walk, bike, skateboard, golf, read, garden, exercise. You can go to Honolulu for any theater or musical event. The commute from Kailua is quite easy. Kailua has its own celebrations from block parties to the Fourth of July parade, Christmas Parade, to the I Love Kailua community parties. You can go to Windward Mall which has a large Border's Bookstore if you just want to enjoy a magazine and a coffee drink. You can go to two of the best beaches on Oahu - Lanikai and Kailua. Ka'elepulu Elementary has a HUGE playground. You could fit two schools in the grassy area that belongs to that school. Lots of room for kids to run around and play. Near the Kailua Library you find the City & County tennis courts, a junglegym for kids, and a swimming pool. There are several exercise facilities which offer everything from Pilates to Yoga.
Or you can just do nothing but people watch.
Other: I've lived in Hawaii for 30 years (showing my age here! ) and Kailua is my favorite place of all the places I've lived here.
Area you are describing: Kauai, Kekaha/Waimea (West Shore)
Weather: Warmer here then other parts of the island. Sprinkles a couple times a week at night during the summer, rains a few times a week in the winter. Averages 25 inches per year. Overall it is comfortable except some days when the trade winds are not blowing then it tends to get more humid and sticky. Tends to be very warm most evenings right when the sun goes down due to the trades dropping off. Average 85-89 highs in the summer, 80-ish in the winter. Average mid to upper 60's lows in the summer, low to mid 60's in the winter.
Schools: My kids go to Island School in Lihue, which is a 1 hour one-way bus on the "Kaua'i Bus" public bus system. It's the only private High School on the whole island. Wonderful and very small class sizes. They concentrate on Hawaiian Culture and have a good range of sports. A lot of neighborhood kids go to Kekaha Elementary which is supposed to be one of the worst public schools in the county, just ahead of the one in Hanama'ulu, so the smarter parents send their kids to St. Theresa Catholic School which goes from K-8th. The Waimea High School is the only high school this side so all the kids from Kalaheo west come here. Kalaheo can choose between Waimea and Kaua'i High, but most pick Kaua'i High. I don't believe in sending childrun to public school anywhere, but if St. Theresa and Island School didn't exist, I would homeschool before putting my kids in public school here.
Commute: There is a one lane in each direction highway from Polihale Beach Rd all the way to Lihue with two passing areas on the way. We go to Lihue every week or so, and it take about 40 minutes to get to Puhi, just north of the Kaua'i Humane Society. Puhi is where traffic is an issue due to the inability of the county to time the traffic lights.
Food: We have only a couple of decent restaurants, all tourist traps. Wrangler's is a decent steak. Shrimp Station and Island Taco both serve good local tacos (i.e. seared Ahi [tuna], etc). Yumi's, Obsessions, and Pacific Pizza in Waimea are good local choices, but they are more like local diners than full restaurants. Overall the restaurants are mediocre at best and way overpriced. We have at 3 Farmer's Markets between Kalaheo and Kekaha per week.
Shopping: Ishihara's in Waimea, or Big Save (locally known variously as "Big Rip," "Big Spend," "Small Wallet," etc) in both Ele'Ele and Waimea for groceries. Big Save in Ele'Ele is the cheapest with the best selection, but Ishihara's has the best poke or sashimi.
Air quality: When Kilauea is going nuts, it can be pretty bad. We'll get "vog cough" sometimes, and it can be as bad as LA, but it's pretty rare - I'd say 3-7 days a year.
Economy: Things are slow. Seen a couple businesses close in the area. Lots of Kama'aina rates to draw in the local.
Crime: Violent crime is almost non-existant, but you will find lots of places at night where people will smoke pakalolo or do meth. If you're a local, no big deal, but I highly suggest you keep the rental cars in the Po'ipu areas or on Kaumuali'i Highway at night.
Housing prices: Compared to where I lived in Oklahoma City they are astronomically priced, even after the market "crashed." Still seeing $550k 3 & 4 BR houses, but the foreclosures are getting down into the $400k range on this side. Lihue & Kapa'a have some areas in the low $300's. There are quite a few homes on the market but nothing is moving.
Good neighborhoods: The farther east you go, the more "anti-haole" attitude you'll see, so Kalaheo seems to be the farther east most people are willing to go. Kalaheo is the "yuppie haole" area of the "West" side, although many people don't consider it to be "West Shore" at all. Hanapepe is nice, but HOT up in the Heights. Waimea can be nice, and tends to have a lot of trees, but it currently is concerned about lack of water.
Culture: There is a definite Hawaiian presence at all public events & areas. The way I talk about Hawaii is that it's like another country that speaks Engligh, and that every island is like it's own state. So, O'ahu is like New York City, and Kaua'i is like Montana. They may both be a part of America, and have more in common than they have different, but just like the movie "New in Town," try and move a manager from Miami or NYC, put them in Montana, and see how successful you are. In Oahu, and *maybe* in Kapa'a/Lihue you can put "haole goggles" on, stick with haole friends, and ignore the Hawaiian culture, but if you try that here, you will either fail miserably in your job or Hawaiiana will come smack you around.
Stuff to Do: Endless - too much to write. Polihale Beach, hiking in Koke'e/Waimea Canyon, etc. Lots of outdoor stuff, but someone from San Francisco who is used to spending lots of money on entertainment will find that all their money is spent on living expenses instead, and there's isn't anything "city" to do here anyway - one small theater that shows second-run movies. Outdoor is the way to go around here.
Other: Coming from the Mainland, it is REALLY nice being in a small town where you know everyone and wave all the time. I never lock my car doors on the South & West shores, but I've had a few bad experiences on the North Shore.
Area you are describing: Pearl Harbor area - I'm gearing this towards the military folks who might have orders to move here.
Weather: I'd say this is the 'middle of the road'. Not as dry and arid as Ewa or Hawaii Kai, but not as rainy and cloudy as Kailua. It hovered in the low 90's a lot this summer, but I believe mid to upper 80's is average for the rest of the year.
Schools: I don't have children, but I hear rave reviews about the Pearl Harbor Kai Elementary right next to the base.
Commute: If you work on base, and get housing right in the area, the commute is practically non-existent. My husband often rides his bike to work since the biggest delay is getting through the gate, and being on a bike greatly reduces that. I often walk to base for things like the gym, ITT, etc. And I can get to the NEX, Target, and the Commy in 5 minutes or less by car.
Food: I think this area is very lacking! Right by PSD you'll find Ruby Tuesday's, Panda Express, and a host of fastfood restaurants. A little farther down the road there are some local places like Champa Thai, Anna Millers, etc. and a few more chains like California Pizza Kitchen. But to get really good food, you're going to have to drive a bit farther than that.
Shopping: When it comes to cheap shopping, it's all right here! Well, cheap by Hawaii standards! Target, the NEX, the Commissary are just a stone's throw from base. Drive a little farther and you'll find Ross, Walmart, Sam's Club, and an 'ok' mall. Drive into town, and almost everything you could want is at your fingertips. Almost.
Air quality: Last time we lived here, I thought it was great. This time, the VOG (volcanic emissions that build up from the Big Island where there are no tradewinds) are a little worse.
Economy: Like most bases, you don't feel the crunch as much in the area right around it. But it's definitely harder island-wide to find a job right now for the spouse.
Crime: Petty theft seems to be on the rise in housing that's outside the gate, but most of that is a crime of opportunity, from people leaving their garage doors open, bikes out in the yard, etc. Be smart and you won't have an issue. Plus, all housing outside of the gate comes with alarm systems.
Housing prices: Live in housing and it's free! And seriously, Pearl has amazing housing. And if you want to save money, choose an older neighborhood, and you might get a monetary incentive for move in, or they might not charge you your entire BAH. If you want to live on the economy, it's going to cost you. Right by base, there are condos that go from $1200 for the tiniest, up to about $2600. Houses for rent are harder to come by in the area, and are usually around $2500 from what I see. When deciding if you want to live out in town, and you think you'll save money, keep in mind the Power Bill, and whether or not you'll have AC. Almost all housing has central AC, but it's not that common out in town. And if you do have AC out in town, your electric bill will be very high - much higher than in the mainland. And also consider storage. If you've got a lot of stuff, you're going to have more space for it if you live in housing most likely!
Good neighborhoods: I like Hale Moku since it's right next to base and the houses have garages and small yards. The new housing on Ford Island is beautiful, but it's farther away. Radford and Catlin Park are also gorgeous, but if you don't have kids, you won't qualify for those.
Culture: It's all military, all the time. I highly recommend you make an effort to get AWAY from base and really experience Hawaii. If you stay by the base all the time, you'll never know what you're missing!
Stuff to Do: There is plenty of history in this area. Between the Arizona Memorial, the Battleship Missouri, the USS Bowfin, and the museums on Ford Island, you can really experience a lot of history. There is a beautiful paved path on Hickam AFB (soon to be part of a joint base with Pearl) that takes you along the harbor. It's great for walking, strollers, running, etc. There's a small beach on Hickam too, with little to no wave action so it's great for kids. And there's a lifeguard daily. There are lots of pools and community centers in the area, and a couple of dog parks. There's a marina that does sailing lessons, a place for scuba classes, several golf courses, and plenty of other opportunities to get outside and enjoy the Island!
Other: Hawaii is a great place to be stationed - one of the best in my opinion. Some love it, some hate it. It is what you want it to be, I think. Come with an open mind, live by base to be able to get the most out of your military benefits, but then get out of the area as much as possible. See the sights, explore the island, learn the culture, and make the most of your time here!
Hi - thank you for this post, it is very helpful. Please excuse my ignorance -- but has anyone posted about Honolulu? I am moving to Honolulu this summer. I think people may have already described it, but I am not sure (i.e., referencing neighborhoods/districts within Honolulu that I am not familiar with?) Could somone describe Honolulu please? Thank you!!
Hi - thank you for this post, it is very helpful. Please excuse my ignorance -- but has anyone posted about Honolulu? I am moving to Honolulu this summer. I think people may have already described it, but I am not sure (i.e., referencing neighborhoods/districts within Honolulu that I am not familiar with?) Could somone describe Honolulu please? Thank you!!
That's a tough question. The "City and County of Honolulu" actually takes in all the island of Oahu, but there are a hundred different neighborhoods, and each has its own flavor, often because of the predominant ethnicity of the residents, and often because of the topography.
Just to give you an idea, here are several diffent street views near downtown Honolulu, all within 3 miles of each other:
If you will give us an address in Honolullu (perhaps where you will work) and tell us how far you want to commute, perhaps we can pick some neighborhood(s) and describe it/them.
Anyone have anything for the Kaneohe area? It would be much appreciated.
I live in Kailua, one town away, so I couldn't do justice to the format of this thread, but I have friends there. Kaneohe is also a "Bedroom Community" of Honolulu, but less Haole, more "local" than Kailua. It's a little wetter, since it's closer to the Koolau ridge. I think the best I can do for you is to show you some typical street views:
Area you are describing: Honoka'a(I know there is another one, I like mine better!)
Weather: 65-80 during day/55-75 at night. Some rain/clouds/wind/tons of sun. If the winds are south, lots of vog/gross...
Schools: Honoka'a elementary/highschool
Commute: about 50min-60 to the hotels/20 to Waimea/45-60 to Hilo(all depending on traffic
Food: CC John's(local/dinner type food)Tex drive in(tourist trap with my favorite malasadas), Simply Natural(natural/organic bistro), Cafe Il Mondo(italian, pizza, expensive...)
Shopping: A few little touristy/cutesy shops in town, Ikiuchi Hardware, TKS(small grocery store with most basics and some cool suprises), J&J meat market...
Air quality: amazing if the easterly trade winds are blowing, down right miserable if they are not or Kona winds are prevailing(VOG, VOG, VOG!)
Economy: Pretty crappy right now. Most people commute to the hotels for work or do construction type stuff. Some ranching, slaughter house over in Paauilo
Crime: Mostly petty stuff, some property, stealing. Drunk driving is a problem state wide as is the "ice" epidemic(you most likely won't notice unless you go looking for it, please don't!)
Housing prices: Prices have come WAY down. You could find a nice little hpm kit house for 200k-300k. It varies on location, size...
Good neighborhoods: Most areas are ok. The main thing to be concerned about is the LOUD cars/trucks, speeding, loud neighbors... It can be really bad and affect your day to day life
Culture: Nice old movie theater downtown, festivals, relay for life, Ladies night out at the Hamakua Health Center, Western Weekend...
Churches: Baptist, united methodist, hongwajii mission, Our Lady of the Lourdes(catholic) a few more. More in Waimea too.
Stuff to Do: Not much to be honest. Hiking up Kalopa state park, yard work/gardening year round, Waipio valley/lookout, shopping/walking around downtown, probably some other stuff I forget
Other: We have a Health center/clinic which is nice and friendly for it's size. They are building a new hospital right next to it. We have an ER as well. I believe they fly you to Oahu for trauma. We have a post office, a park.
OK, here's my 2 cents on Kauai, from someone living in the Wailua area on the east side: Area you are describing: East side of Kauai (for living/working).
Weather: Pretty nice, most of the time, especially in the winter. Winter highs around 79-82, lows in the 60s. Summer highs around 86-90, lows in the 70s. Wailua tends to get a fair amount of rain, much of it at night, but not as much as the North Shore.
Schools: My kids go to Island School, a pretty good private school for pre-K to 12th grade. It's a small school, with about 300-some kids, and really a big ohana. "iSchool" has fantastic teachers (at least at the middle and high school levels, I don't have personal knowledge of their elementary program since my son was in 7th and my niece in 9th when we moved), and they do a great job helping kids to get ready for college and get into good colleges. Many of the teachers were college professors or experts in their fields before coming to Island. The student body is diverse, ethnically and socio-economically (many get some kind of financial aid). Their class offerings at the high school level are impressive (honors science program, geology, marine bio, astronomy, many English, SS and art electives, Spanish and Chinese), and they field KIF teams in air riflery, swimming, volleyball, basketball, and other sports. One informal 'motto' of the school is "What can we do better?" and they really seem to live by this. Also, they take a pro-active approach to bullying and other social issues.
Commute: My commute from Wailua Homesteads to my office in Lihue is about 20-25 minutes, 11 miles, and usually pleasant. There is currently some construction on the Wailua bridge, which can cause a back-up at rush hour, but it's not more than 5-10 minutes. One problem is that with only one main road, and only ONE ROAD period in many spots, if there is an accident (or bridge out) you can be completely blocked from getting from 'A' to 'B' for an hour or more. Wailua to the North or South Shores (Hanalei/Poipu) would be more like 40-45 minutes; Wailua to Kapaa might be only 10 minutes, but Kapaa traffic can be horrible sometimes. There is a back way to Kapaa that is usually pretty clear and quick (Olohena Rd.). One thing I love about Wailua is its central location, not too far from anything (except maybe Kekaha/far west, and Kokee State Park, which I'd love to get to more.
Food: Not too many fantastic restaurants in my price range. Mema is OK for Thai, Monico's is great for Mexican, we like Kintaro's sushi. Wahooo has good seafood but tourist prices. Olympic Cafe in Kapaa is great for breakfast, lunch or dinner; something there to please almost anybody. East side (Kapaa) has Safeway, Foodland, and Big Save or you can shop at Times Market in Lihue. We have Papaya's for natural foods, and Cost-U-Less for bulk (no membership, open to all).
Shopping: Mostly only tourist shops. Lihue has KMart/Walmart, Home Depot, and a mall with Sears and Macy's. Kapaa has a gorgeous glass boutique called Kela's and a few clothing shops. Coconut Marketplace (between Wailua and Kapaa) has mostly tourist stuff but also a decent shoe store. Don't come to Kauai to shop. Save your FF miles and take a day trip to Oahu.
Air quality: Good most of the time; we do get a bit of vog when it's REALLY bad elsewhere.
Economy: Lousy right now, no one has any money. But there are a fair number of 'rich' folks here, they may be cutting back but still have money to spend. Construction work was way down but the best contractors still had work. Lots of realtors have closed down. I think we're in a 'winnowing' period where the strongest are surviving and the others struggling or closing. I *think* things will improve slowly in 2010, but who knows? The economy here is driven HEAVILY by tourism.
Crime: Not very bad. I think a lot of people don't lock their houses or cars (unless going to a tourist spot, like a popular beach). My bicycle (lousy KMart mountain bike) was stolen off my carport, but I'm pretty sure (after talking with neighbors) that it was taken by neighborhood kids. I intend to confront them about it someday.
Housing prices: Astronomical. Much lower than a couple of years ago, though. I think it's the time to buy, if you want to buy over here. 2BR/3BA was going for over $500K, I suspect you could get a decent place on a small lot for around $400K now. Hard to afford a very nice place, or a lot of land.
Good neighborhoods: Wailua Homesteads is considered a nice neighborhood. It's a mix of all races, ages, and socio-economic levels, as far as I can tell. There are more 'neighborhood-y' areas and more rural areas, where parcels are bigger. Wailua Houselots (down the hill) is more of a suburban neighborhood with houses closer together. There are neighborhoods around Kapaa too, a lot of folks live up the north end of Kapaa and that seems nice too.
Culture: Not much by way of live music, theater, etc., but some things. Kauai has a couple of jazz festivals each year; there is good live music two or three times/year, depending on what you like. A couple of local amateur theater groups, so there's almost always some play or another. Two movie theaters, one in Lihue and one down in Waimea (long drive). We attend a lot of school events (plays, concerts). If you are into spectator sports,
nothing here that I can think of at all. Libraries in Kapaa, Lihue (and others north and south).
Stuff to Do: Mostly outdoor activities, parks, beaches, trails. Hike, bike, swim, scuba, paddle, surf. Hang out with your friends at home or the beach. There is a big 'wellness' community if you are into yoga, massage, reiki, that kind of stuff. There are events now and then: Coconut Festival, Native American 'pow wow', stuff like that. Several golf courses. Tourist activities like 'ziplining', ATV tours, boat and helicopter tours. Several hula halau that you could join if you want to dance. KCC offers classes in 'adult ed' topics.
Other: I feel that Wailua is one of the best places to live on Kauai because of its central location. The rain/cloudiness gets to me sometimes, but only when I forget that if I just get in the car and drive down to the ocean, it will probably be clear (or if not, just go south or north and it will be). If I lived on the north or west side I'd probably really hate to drive all the way to Lihue, or even worse, the other end of the island. From here, though, I can go almost anywhere. Koloa might not be too bad (South side), or Kalaheo (west of Lihue). This is a family-oriented area that feels safe and comfortable; I like that people live in 'mansions' and others in 'shacks' but it doesn't seem to matter, people make friends with others based on their personalities and interests, not so much their 'status'.
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) and Kailua is my favorite place of all the places I've lived here.
Pearl Harbor for the Military Folks
