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Have you inquired about getting a used (new to you) engine, or a rebuilt engine?
You can also buy a used car for much less than 23k. Especially now that dealer lots are overflowing. If your standard for your current vehicle is merely that it has to run, why would you set dramatically higher standards for a vehicle you would consider buying? Personally, when I buy a vehicle, I usually am only looking to go a few years younger and 40k-50k miles less than what I already have. Having a used car for 3-5 years is a decent sweet spot where you aren't paying too much in sales taxes or markups but also are not being eaten alive by depreciation.
A high quality rebuilt engine should be as good as new, and even a used engine from a reputable salvage yard - if it's out of a low mileage car that got in an accident can be fine - the rest of the car is after all used. I agree these other options are worth looking into.
Have you inquired about getting a used (new to you) engine, or a rebuilt engine?
You can also buy a used car for much less than 23k. Especially now that dealer lots are overflowing. If your standard for your current vehicle is merely that it has to run, why would you set dramatically higher standards for a vehicle you would consider buying? Personally, when I buy a vehicle, I usually am only looking to go a few years younger and 40k-50k miles less than what I already have. Having a used car for 3-5 years is a decent sweet spot where you aren't paying too much in sales taxes or markups but also are not being eaten alive by depreciation.
How does depreciation eat you alive? I never worry about that. We buy new cars and keep them for 15 to 20 years or more.
Well, OP still hasn't come across with an explanation for "engine in the beginning stages of going out". So all we can do is speculate; it might be that a valve job and re-sealing is the answer; or it might be that the cylinders are scored, the rings are broken, half the valves are burned and two main bearings have spun. OR it might just be that it needs a new starter water pump and alternator. We're all just guessing. It's like when people say "the transmission blew up". Meaningless words.
OP, what are the dry and wet compression test results? Has anyone given you a diagnosis? What are you experiencing other than oil leaks?
Well, OP still hasn't come across with an explanation for "engine in the beginning stages of going out". So all we can do is speculate; it might be that a valve job and re-sealing is the answer; or it might be that the cylinders are scored, the rings are broken, half the valves are burned and two main bearings have spun. OR it might just be that it needs a new starter water pump and alternator. We're all just guessing. It's like when people say "the transmission blew up". Meaningless words.
OP, what are the dry and wet compression test results? Has anyone given you a diagnosis? What are you experiencing other than oil leaks?
The cam sensor is not functioning correctly and the car burns a lot of oil. Took it to multiple places who said it's related to a known defect with the engine that is too expensive to repair. That's really all I know.
How does depreciation eat you alive? I never worry about that. We buy new cars and keep them for 15 to 20 years or more.
Because the first 3 years of owning a car have the most depreciation. It's not hard to understand. You can purchase a car 3 years old and keep it for 15-20 years as well. The car doesn't know its had two owners.
Wow. Sounds like the only viable options are spend $9K-$10K to have a new engine installed, or keep driving it until it dies. I think if I were the OP I would just keep topping off the oil and drive it until it won't go anymore.
im in the same spot, I have a vehicle that I have owned for 23 years, it was clean and nice, dependable. But i myself because of stupidty damage the motor, it not value wize worth me replacing the motor with a junkyard motor but somebody else could have a cheap nice second car. I just dont want to deal with it
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