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Scotts Grub-Ex - Granular
chlorantraniliprole 0.08% Apply between April 15 and May 15 for best results, but can be applied through June 20th.
Bayer Advanced Season Long Grub Control and Turf Revitalizer - Granular
imidacloprid 0.25% and fertilizer Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Granules - Granular
cyfluthrin 0.05% and imidacloprid 0.15% Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
Bayer Advanced Season-Long Grub Control Liquid - attach-to-hose-bottle
imidacloprid 1.47% Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
(local distributors name) Premium Grub Control (Do not confuse with "Premium Insect Control")
imidacloprid 0.2% Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
Poor Choices for Grub Control Products
Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Liquid attach-to-hose-bottle
cyfluthrin 0.36% and imidacloprid 0.72% This product will not deliver enough imidacloprid to work effectively - do not confuse this with the Bayer Advanced combination granular or the Bayer Advanced attach-to-hose-bottle product containing only imidacloprid (both of which do deliver enough chemical per area to be effective).
Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer Once and Done Granules
gamma-cyhalothrin 0.05% Will not kill grubs at any rate.
Last edited by movin2Reston; 05-22-2016 at 01:13 PM..
Early April is when you treat for grubs. If you missed that date then you need to treat in the early fall when the grubs begin to grow into adults. You can put down whatever you want after April, and it won't do a damn bit of good til the cool weather returns.
Fast forward to 4:30 mins for an excellent explanation of how grubs grow through the seasons (it is an annual process).
Grubs start feeding in early July through August with brown spots displaying in September.
Grubs can actually feed in late March-April, but as Allyn highlights, one of the BIGGEST misconceptions is treating for grubs in the Spring timeframe of late March/April (8:00 mins).
Treat for grubs in June with a preventive product and it must be watered in.
No grub control, fungicide, or other extra chemical treatments for me. Haven't used anything besides a crabgrass pre-emergent and miloganite for years along with spot spraying some dandelions in spring.
Anytime I dig up a chunk of grass, I do find grubs. If your grass is healthy, you cut high, apply milorganite, and promote deep roots with with infrequent deep watering....your yard can handle a population of grubs. I don't aerate either.
Sometimes we all try to make lawncare more difficult than it needs to be. The more chemicals you apply to your yards, the harder it is on your grass. Lawn chemicals also get in the way of deep root growth of your grass.
I'm a fan of "The Lawncare Nut", but he seems to be pushing more chemicals lately, or maybe I just noticed it after signing up for his email updates. Of course I'm sure there's more money in kickbacks/referrals from the chemical providers. Probably not a lot of money in just keeping it simple with Milorganite, cutting high, and watering deeply.
No grub control, fungicide, or other extra chemical treatments for me. Haven't used anything besides a crabgrass pre-emergent and miloganite for years along with spot spraying some dandelions in spring.
Anytime I dig up a chunk of grass, I do find grubs. If your grass is healthy, you cut high, apply milorganite, and promote deep roots with with infrequent deep watering....your yard can handle a population of grubs. I don't aerate either.
Sometimes we all try to make lawncare more difficult than it needs to be. The more chemicals you apply to your yards, the harder it is on your grass. Lawn chemicals also get in the way of deep root growth of your grass.
I'm a fan of "The Lawncare Nut", but he seems to be pushing more chemicals lately, or maybe I just noticed it after signing up for his email updates. Of course I'm sure there's more money in kickbacks/referrals from the chemical providers. Probably not a lot of money in just keeping it simple with Milorganite, cutting high, and watering deeply.
Anyhow just my two cents.
I disagree on the grubs. I get them every year in the same sections of my lawn. I can take a thatch rake and pull up big sections of grass because the roots have been eaten. I get these brown spots earlier than what has been mentioned. I'll probably start seeing them in late July. I'll throw some grass seed down and usually have new grass by September. I've used all the grub control products on the market but they always come back.
I disagree on the grubs. I get them every year in the same sections of my lawn. I can take a thatch rake and pull up big sections of grass because the roots have been eaten. I get these brown spots earlier than what has been mentioned. I'll probably start seeing them in late July. I'll throw some grass seed down and usually have new grass by September. I've used all the grub control products on the market but they always come back.
If it's same spots, seems grass is having trouble getting fully established before next year grubs attacked. We have lots of grubs in both the lawn and flower beds that I see anytime I'm digging around. But minimal die-back from grub damage. Our grass is very established so probably more tolerant of the grub activity.
This is the third year that I've put down Dylox (first week of June) and there's been no sign of moles or patches of dead lawn.
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All About Grubs!
