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I have a few quick questions regarding tiling the shower/tub walls with ceramic tile.
Firstoff, I have already installed the cement boards in place on the walls (I did use roofing felt on the studs before installation). With the fiberglass mesh tape, do you apply that to the joints first before filling it in with the thinset mortar or after?
I have read that getting the thinset mortar that you have to mix by water is the preferred method. Problem is though I can get the mixing paddle, I don't have a 1/2" drill (and my 3/8" drill most likely won't be strong enough to mix the mortar). Would the premixed stuff work also, or should I go with the mixing solution?
And, do you use a seperate tile adhesive to for the actual ceramic tiles? I recently bought several boxes of 12x12 size tile to make the job a bit quicker as compared to the smaller ones. Would you use the thinset mortar to set the tiles with or would you have to use tile adhesive to do the job?
I went to Lowes last week and was a bit confused on the different mortar types, so I wanted to get some clarification before I went out to the store to get the remaining materials. Already got the grout rubber float, sponge and tile spacers and a notched trowel.
I have a few quick questions regarding tiling the shower/tub walls with ceramic tile.
Firstoff, I have already installed the cement boards in place on the walls (I did use roofing felt on the studs before installation). With the fiberglass mesh tape, do you apply that to the joints first before filling it in with the thinset mortar or after?
I have read that getting the thinset mortar that you have to mix by water is the preferred method. Problem is though I can get the mixing paddle, I don't have a 1/2" drill (and my 3/8" drill most likely won't be strong enough to mix the mortar). Would the premixed stuff work also, or should I go with the mixing solution?
And, do you use a seperate tile adhesive to for the actual ceramic tiles? I recently bought several boxes of 12x12 size tile to make the job a bit quicker as compared to the smaller ones. Would you use the thinset mortar to set the tiles with or would you have to use tile adhesive to do the job?
I went to Lowes last week and was a bit confused on the different mortar types, so I wanted to get some clarification before I went out to the store to get the remaining materials. Already got the grout rubber float, sponge and tile spacers and a notched trowel.
Thanks for any help!
the thinset will fill in as you apply it for tiling. you can get a mixer that will fit a 3/8 drill and as long as it's electric it will work fine. i have always used the premixed stuff cause i'm too lazy to mix it....lol either way it will come out the same. if you have any problems when buying stuff the people at lowes are pretty helpfull when picking things out to do the job. that's how i have leaned alot about tiling. you didn't mention anything about a saw, did you buy one or are you renting ?
I have a few quick questions regarding tiling the shower/tub walls with ceramic tile.
Firstoff, I have already installed the cement boards in place on the walls (I did use roofing felt on the studs before installation). With the fiberglass mesh tape, do you apply that to the joints first before filling it in with the thinset mortar or after?
I have read that getting the thinset mortar that you have to mix by water is the preferred method. Problem is though I can get the mixing paddle, I don't have a 1/2" drill (and my 3/8" drill most likely won't be strong enough to mix the mortar). Would the premixed stuff work also, or should I go with the mixing solution?
And, do you use a seperate tile adhesive to for the actual ceramic tiles? I recently bought several boxes of 12x12 size tile to make the job a bit quicker as compared to the smaller ones. Would you use the thinset mortar to set the tiles with or would you have to use tile adhesive to do the job?
I went to Lowes last week and was a bit confused on the different mortar types, so I wanted to get some clarification before I went out to the store to get the remaining materials. Already got the grout rubber float, sponge and tile spacers and a notched trowel.
Thanks for any help!
You can do the fiberglass tape joints just before starting the tile, apply a thin layer of thinset over the tape.
Use the thinset mortar for the best job. You must be extremely careful to understand exactly what each thinset mix will need. Some require a latex additive (milk), no water is used. The millk can be a tad expensive but it always gives a superior job.
There may be some thinsets that claim either no milk is required or it is already in there in a power form. Read and understand it very carefully.
Do not use that goop out of the can for a shower, use thinset.
You actually are better off buying in a tile store. Lowes and HD have a nasty habit of that stuff on the shelves being ancient. They don't sell enough. Many thinsets are like plaster, they have a bit of shelf life. You want something that has not been on the shelf forever and a place where the stock moves out the door on a frequent basis.
Another thing to always consider when tiling any wall and having plumbing behind it. How will you do repairs, maintenance if it requires getting behind the tiles again. Therefore I always design the bath with an access panel to get at the actual plumbing. Like the valve for the shower, its piping etc, I even put shutoff valves in there. One good way, done a lot in old houses, is the critical plumbing has a removable access panel in a closet that is built right behind the shower area. The closet and shower share a wall, you get access by going into the closet, removing the panel and poof, you can work on the plumbing. I always design the bath to have access panels. Usually by going in some area behind the bath and doing that access panel in a wall. Could be a bedroom or whatever is behind the bath. Never appreciate that lil feature until you need it and then it is pure gold.
See way too many fancy houses with one shower backed up to another in another bath. Both have fancy tiled walls. You need to work on the plumbing for a reason must bust out all that fancy tile. Shame, shame.
Location: Visitation between Wal-Mart & Home Depot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmic
You can do the fiberglass tape joints just before starting the tile, apply a thin layer of thinset over the tape.
Use the thinset mortar for the best job. You must be extremely careful to understand exactly what each thinset mix will need. Some require a latex additive (milk), no water is used. The millk can be a tad expensive but it always gives a superior job.
There may be some thinsets that claim either no milk is required or it is already in there in a power form. Read and understand it very carefully.
Do not use that goop out of the can for a shower, use thinset.
You actually are better off buying in a tile store. Lowes and HD have a nasty habit of that stuff on the shelves being ancient. They don't sell enough. Many thinsets are like plaster, they have a bit of shelf life. You want something that has not been on the shelf forever and a place where the stock moves out the door on a frequent basis.
Another thing to always consider when tiling any wall and having plumbing behind it. How will you do repairs, maintenance if it requires getting behind the tiles again. Therefore I always design the bath with an access panel to get at the actual plumbing. Like the valve for the shower, its piping etc, I even put shutoff valves in there. One good way, done a lot in old houses, is the critical plumbing has a removable access panel in a closet that is built right behind the shower area. The closet and shower share a wall, you get access by going into the closet, removing the panel and poof, you can work on the plumbing. I always design the bath to have access panels. Usually by going in some area behind the bath and doing that access panel in a wall. Could be a bedroom or whatever is behind the bath. Never appreciate that lil feature until you need it and then it is pure gold.
See way too many fancy houses with one shower backed up to another in another bath. Both have fancy tiled walls. You need to work on the plumbing for a reason must bust out all that fancy tile. Shame, shame.
Good advice from Cosmic.
About grouts, do a bit of homework before you make any purchase. A tile specialty store is going to have a better selection of better grout than the big box chains, but shelf life is not generally the same issue with cement products. For a shower wall you probably want to get the 1/8" spacers so that you can use an unsanded grout, preferably with a latex additive. Some grouts have dry latex mixed in, others will require the milk additive Cosmic referenced. I'm not an authority on the ups and downs of either system. The dry additive is much simpler but I suspect the milk is a superior product. This will make the grout lines easier to clean, easier to seal and they will resist water penetration and mildew much better. There are also epoxy based grouts that are basically impervious, but I think that they can be a bit of a bear to install properly. Look into it if you are curious. This actually sounds like a fun problem to have.
About grouts, do a bit of homework before you make any purchase. A tile specialty store is going to have a better selection of better grout than the big box chains, but shelf life is not generally the same issue with cement products. For a shower wall you probably want to get the 1/8" spacers so that you can use an unsanded grout, preferably with a latex additive. Some grouts have dry latex mixed in, others will require the milk additive Cosmic referenced. I'm not an authority on the ups and downs of either system. The dry additive is much simpler but I suspect the milk is a superior product. This will make the grout lines easier to clean, easier to seal and they will resist water penetration and mildew much better. There are also epoxy based grouts that are basically impervious, but I think that they can be a bit of a bear to install properly. Look into it if you are curious. This actually sounds like a fun problem to have.
By "milk additive" you mean you mix some sorts of grout with cow milk instead of water?
If so I guess I have learned something already today...
I have a few quick questions regarding tiling the shower/tub walls with ceramic tile.
Firstoff, I have already installed the cement boards in place on the walls (I did use roofing felt on the studs before installation). With the fiberglass mesh tape, do you apply that to the joints first before filling it in with the thinset mortar or after?
I have read that getting the thinset mortar that you have to mix by water is the preferred method. Problem is though I can get the mixing paddle, I don't have a 1/2" drill (and my 3/8" drill most likely won't be strong enough to mix the mortar). Would the premixed stuff work also, or should I go with the mixing solution?
And, do you use a seperate tile adhesive to for the actual ceramic tiles? I recently bought several boxes of 12x12 size tile to make the job a bit quicker as compared to the smaller ones. Would you use the thinset mortar to set the tiles with or would you have to use tile adhesive to do the job?
I went to Lowes last week and was a bit confused on the different mortar types, so I wanted to get some clarification before I went out to the store to get the remaining materials. Already got the grout rubber float, sponge and tile spacers and a notched trowel.
Thanks for any help!
I am just now finishing this very thing in a rental house.
I put the fiberglass mesh tape down before putting Thinset on the seams. I do not, however, think the order is extremely important. It's going to mix and set together anyway.
I applied a thin coat of Thinset on the seams IN ADDITION to the troweled layer that adhered the tiles to the cement board. I smoothed it much the same way I smooth drywall mud.
I just bought a bucket of the pre-mixed Thinset Mortar, and used it on the whole project - floor, walls and ceiling. I think the main reason for buying the bags of Thinset, and mixing it yourself, is purely economic. The ready-mixed kind is MUCH more expensive.
Also, if you don't already have one, do yourself a HUGE favor and buy one of those cheap tile wet-saws. You'll need it.
Below is a picture of my project. I found a (literally) whole pickup load of vintage 4x4 ceramic tiles for $25. Since this particular house was built in the early 60s, I decided to go with an era-appropriate look. It has been fun, but needless to say the 45 degree angle thing has been a big ole painus in the anus.
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs195.snc1/6572_100011447917_504972917_2186989_882853_n.jpg (broken link)
Thanks guys for your help, now I have a much better idea of what needs to be done. I know a wet saw will be needed to cut the tile because most likely I will need to do that.
@Omaha, nice job with that tile job! I know tiling isn't difficult just takes a little patience and making sure that you're getting it right.
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