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Old 05-21-2013, 02:25 PM
 
2,341 posts, read 12,072,013 times
Reputation: 2040

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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhemi View Post
Im'a gunna say both brian_m and garagelogic have it right.

Getting the right torque is important. Under do it and it can come loose. Over do it and weaken the bolt/stud and have it shear off.

For the most part, I can come pretty close when using foot pounds by feel. Inch pounds, well, I dont guess on those.

I use air to remove fasteners quickly and to thread em quickly, but I will still use a torque wrench to tighten.

Its worth doing it right. You may get lucky 1000 times, but the one time you dont, could be your last. Buy a torque wrench.
Right.

When you're talking about head bolts, on aluminum heads, you danged well better get them right - and tighten them in the right order.

When you're talking about less sensitive things - like shock absorber mounting bolts & nuts, long-term wrenchers can get it right every time, if we just slow down & pay attention.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:03 PM
 
46 posts, read 80,004 times
Reputation: 56
You guys have been great,thank you very much.

STS Auto Care for spring compression (no need to lose an eye or my life). Will also rent a torque wrench but if I cant find the specs , my 3/8 ratchet will suffice. Finally, markings are a must (Thanks JBPisgah).


March 28 - had a suspension diagnostic by dealership (bent rim and a pebble caused the problems)
May 17 - had a suspension diagnostic by same dealership ( Struts and shocks caused the problems $1420)
They were willing to give me 10% off. NO Thanks
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:04 PM
 
46 posts, read 80,004 times
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Can someone help me out with the specs
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:34 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
17,233 posts, read 57,204,530 times
Reputation: 18627
Quote:
Originally Posted by GarageLogic View Post
And to balance the ticket, I've been wrenching professionally for over 30 years, and I often don't use a torque wrench on certain applications. Fact is, I've wrenched long enough that I'll get any nut or bolt tightened to within 5 lbs of where "specs" are just by feel alone. I've never once had anything I didn't use a torque wrench on come back, or fail.
No doubt you can do this, (so can I) but the OP is a noob and I doubt he can!
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:40 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
17,233 posts, read 57,204,530 times
Reputation: 18627
Quote:
Originally Posted by BiscuitsNGravy View Post
Plan to replace front struts and rear shocks without a torque wrench or air tools. I will be using regular hand tools a ie. racthet and socket.

Is there anyone here who has done the same and didnt have parts come apart or crack. (success and failed stories are both welcomed)

2007 Hyundai Elantra 88,000 miles

Thanks
Really no need for air tools if you don't mind that the job will go slower without them, but there is no need to go without a torque wrench - either buy one (and you might as well get a good one that will last the rest of your life) or many outfits like Autozone will loan such tools.

What you will need is a spring compressor on the front struts, though. Most rear shock setups are easier to do than front struts.

Get at least a Chilton or Haynes manual so you know what you are doing, the front springs can be dangerous if you release tension not knowing it's about to happen (you really do need spring compressors for this job)

Keep in mind that even if your shocks and struts are worn, there is no reason you really *have* to do this job *right now* - it can wait.

If you decide not to DIY find a good indy shop that can do your front suspension anyway.

If you mark the camber adjust washer/bolt (assuming it has one) you should not need alignment after doing the shocks and struts, but I would at the very least check it with string if you don't get a shop to align.
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:48 PM
 
13,811 posts, read 27,506,814 times
Reputation: 14251
The Harbor Freight click torque wrenches are $9.99 with coupon and test accurate. Don't be scared by the price they are good and repeatable.

Air tools will help you remove components faster but that is it.

Advance Auto Parts / Autozone "rent" the spring compressors for free. Having an impact will greatly speed the compression of them provided you do so carefully.

Buy a Chilton or Haynes for your car they are inexpensive and will have the torque specs printed in the manual. Any nut/bolt combo that is torque to yield (ie torqued to XX ft-lbs, then turned X degrees) should be replaced and not reused.

Don't buy the cheap replacement parts. Go OEM or quality replacement. I buy cheap aftermarket all the time for certain things but suspension/axles is not one of them.
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:46 PM
 
4,761 posts, read 14,317,184 times
Reputation: 7960
Torque wrenches not only tell you when the bolt/nut is tight enough...

...but also keep you from tightening a bolt or nut TOO TIGHT and stripping the threads.

(Which can be a very costly mistake!)

FYI - The amount of torque for each nut/bolt is in a factory service manual and for some things in the service manuals sold in auto parts stores.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:27 AM
 
46 posts, read 80,004 times
Reputation: 56
I have the torque wrench and the Hayes manual.
Wish me luck.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:56 AM
 
Location: Walton County, GA
1,242 posts, read 3,486,224 times
Reputation: 1049
Quote:
Originally Posted by BiscuitsNGravy View Post
I have the torque wrench and the Hayes manual.
Wish me luck.
Good luck! You will be fine. Take your time, no shortcuts, just do as the book says and enjoy the extra cash from not having a shop do it
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:31 AM
 
792 posts, read 2,880,239 times
Reputation: 883
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhemi View Post
Good luck! You will be fine. Take your time, no shortcuts, just do as the book says and enjoy the extra cash from not having a shop do it
The pain of the job is not knowing what to do, getting stuck things off, and getting disorganized. (And the springs; they are just inherently kind of a pain.)

Take some pictures at the start. Put a cloth on the ground and put everything in groups in order as they come off. Also, spray some penetrating oil on all the bolts the day before, or even a week before.
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