City: Portsmouth Island, NC

Category: Tours & Attractions

Telephone: (252) 728-2250

Address: South of Ocracoke Island, by private bo

Description: The only ghost town on the Eastern Seaboard, Portsmouth Village is about a 20-minute boat ride south of Ocracoke Island and was once the biggest town on the Outer Banks. Today the 23-milelong, 1.5-mile-wide island is owned and managed by the National Park Service as part of Cape Lookout National Seashore. Wilderness camping, hiking, shelling, fishing, and other activities are available on the wide beach. Free, self-guided walking tours of the village are a fascinating way to see how islanders lived in the 19th century. Visiting Portsmouth Village is utterly surreal. Many of the former homes and village buildings are intact and restored, but they sit hollow, yet hopeful, as if waiting to come to life. Peeking into the windows of some of the unrestored buildings, you’ll see remnants of the families who once lived there—curtains, unmade beds, upturned old chairs, broken frames—as if they left in a hurry and never came back. There is a visitor center on-site, staffed by volunteers who commit to living on the island for extended periods of time. You can see the old post office, the church, the old Coast Guard station, and other buildings. Some of the homes are private, their owners granted extended leases in exchange for restoration work. Portsmouth Island is a rugged adventure, and there are few conveniences. Restrooms are provided in the visitor center, and there’s a comfort station (toilets only) on the other side of the village. You must bring your own water, food, insect repellent, and sunscreen. Mosquitoes are notorious in the summer and fall. You can get to the island by private boat or with a charter service. Capt. Rudy Austin runs round-trip boat trips to the island, daily in summer and by appointment in the off-season. Call at least one day in advance for reservations, (252) 928-4361 or (252) 928-5431. Portsmouth Island ATV Excursions, (252) 928-4484, leads guided tours of the village and island on ATVs from Apr through Nov. Call for reservations and information.